
If the land areas are ignored the effect of these
bulges is to create an ellipsoid of water with its long
axis oriented towards the position of the Moon. As the
Earth rotates about its axis the bulges move around
the planet. At any point on the surface the level of the
water will rise and fall twice a day as the two bulges
are passed in each rotation. This creates the daily
or diurnal tides . During the daily rotation, a point
on the Earth will pass under one high bulge and
a slightly lower bulge 12 hours or so later: this is
referred to as the diurnal tidal inequality, the two
high tides in a day are not of equal height. The two
tides in the diurnal tidal cycle are just over twelve and
a half hours because the Moon is orbiting the Earth as
the planet is rotating, changing its relative position
each day.
The Moon rotates around the Earth in the same
plane as the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. The Sun
also creates a tide, but its strength is about half that
of the Moon despite its greater mass, because the
Sun is further away. When the Sun and Moon are
in line with the Earth (an alignment known as
syzygy) the gravitational effects of these two bodies
are added together to increase the height of the tidal
bulge. When the Moon is at 90
˚
to the line joining the
Sun and the Earth (the quadratic alignment), the
gravitational effects of the two on the water tend
to cancel each other. During the four weeks of the
Moon’s orbit, it is twice in line and twice perpendicu-
lar. This creates neap–spring tidal cycles with the
highest tides in each month, the spring tides, occur-
ring when the three bodies are in line. (The term
‘spring’ in this context is not referring to the season
of the year.) A week either side of the spring tides
are the neap tides, which occur when the Moon and
Sun tend to cancel each other and the tidal effect is
smallest.
Superimposed on the diurnal and neap–spring cycles
is an annual tidal cycle caused by the elliptical
nature of the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. At the
spring and autumn (Fall) equinoxes, the Earth is clo-
sest to the Sun and the gravitational effect is stron-
gest. The highest tides of the year occur when there
are spring tides in late March and late September. In
mid-summer and mid-winter the Sun is at its furthest
away and the tides are smaller. This pattern of three
superimposed tidal cycles (diurnal, neap–spring and
annual) is a fundamental feature of tidal processes
that controls variations through time of the strength
of tidal currents.
11.2.2 Tidal ranges
The tidal bulge created in the open ocean is only a few
tens of centimetres, but of course the difference
between high and low tide is many metres in some
places, so there must be a mechanism to amplify the
vertical change in sea level. The tidal bulge can be
considered as a wave of water that passes over the
surface of the Earth. In any waveform resonance
effects are created by the shape of the boundaries of
the ‘vessel’ the wave is moving through. In oceans
and seas the shape of the continental shelf as it shal-
lows towards land, indentations of the coastline and
narrow straits between seas can all create resonance
effects in the tidal wave. These can increase the ampli-
tude of the tide and locally the tidal range is increased
to several metres by tidal resonance effects. The high-
est tidal ranges in the world today are in bays on
continental shelves, such as the Bay of Fundy, on
the Atlantic seaboard of Canada, which has a tidal
range of over 15 m (Dalrymple 1984).
In addition to the influence of land masses, the
movement of water between high- and low-tide con-
ditions is also affected by the Coriolis force (6.3):
water masses moving in the northern hemisphere
are deflected to the right of their path and in the
southern hemisphere to the left. These effects break
up the tidal wave into a series of amphidromic cells
and at the centre of each cell there is an amphidro-
mic point around which the tidal wave rotates
(Fig. 11.4). At the amphidromic point there is no
change in the water level during the tidal cycle. All
oceans are divided into a number of major amphidro-
mic cells and there are additional, smaller cells in shelf
areas such as the North Sea and small seas such as
the Gulf of Mexico. Tidal ranges are therefore very
variable and within a body of water the pattern of
tides can be very complex: in the North Sea, for
example, the tidal range varies from less than a
metre to over 6 m (Fig. 11.4). For sedimentological
purposes it is useful to divide tidal ranges into the
following categories: up to 2 m mean tidal range the
regime is microtidal, between 2 and 4 m range it is
mesotidal and over 4 m is macrotidal.
11.2.3 Characteristics of tidal currents
The horizontal movement of water induced by tides is
a tidal current: tidal currents are weak in microtidal
166 The Marine Realm: Morphology and Processes