2.8 Layer symmetry and examples in woven textiles 73
in the 1930s, and also presumably from Owen Jones’ chapter on ‘Moresque Ornament’
in which he describes the Alhambra as ‘the very summit of Moorish art, as the Parthenon
is of Greek art’. Escher’s patterns encompass all the seventeen plane groups, eleven of
which are represented in the Alhambra.
More recent work has identified clear preponderances of certain plane symmetry
groups, and the absences of others.
3
For example, nearly 50% of traditional Javanese
batik (wax-resist textile) patterns belong to plane group p4mm (Fig. 2.6), others, such
as p3, p3m1, p31m and p6 are wholly absent. In Jacquard-woven French silks of the
last decade of the nineteenth century, nearly 80% of the patterns belong to plane group
pg. In Japanese textile designs of the Edo period all plane groups are represented,
with a marked preponderance for groups p2mm and c2mm. What these differences
mean, or tell us about the cultures which gave rise to them, is, as the saying goes,
‘another question’.
In X-ray crystallography crystal structures are frequently represented as two-
dimensional projections (electron density maps—see Section 13.2). The beauty and
variety of these patterns led Dr Helen Megaw
∗
, a crystallographer at Birkbeck College,
London, to suggest that they be made the basis for the design of wallpapers and fabrics
in the same way that William Morris used flowers and birds in his pattern designs. Her
suggestion eventually bore fruit in the work of the Festival Pattern Group of the 1951
Festival of Britain and the production of a remarkable variety of patterned wallpapers,
carpets and fabrics based upon crystal structures as diverse as haemoglobin, insulin and
apophyllite. These patterns, recently republished,
4
provide a rich source of material for
plane group recognition.
2.8 Layer (two-sided) symmetry and examples in
woven textiles
Woven textiles consist of interlacing warp ‘north-south’ threads and weft ‘east-weft’
threads. The various combinationsof interlacings, which giverise to the different patterns
of cloths, are very wide indeed, ranging from the simplest ‘single cloth’, plain weave
fabric, where individual warp and weft threads pass over and under each time (Fig. 2.13),
to more complex cloth structures. Common structures include twills (e.g. Fig. 2.14),
herringbones, sateens, etc. Clearly, there are symmetry relationships between the ‘face’
and ‘back’ of such woven fabrics and the study of such relationships introduces us to
what are known as layer-symmetry groups or classes.
We will not describe all the layer-symmetry groups or classes (of which there are a
total of 80) but just some of the general principles of their construction. Readers who
wish to follow this topic further should refer to the book by Shubnikov and Koptsik or
∗
Denotes biographical notes available in Appendix 3.
3
M.A. Hann. Symmetry of Regular Repeating Patterns: Case Studies from various cultural settings. Journal
of the Textile Institute (1992), Vol. 83, pp. 579–580.
4
L. Jackson. From Atoms to Patterns, Crystal Structure Designs from the 1951 Festival of Britain. Richard
Dennis Publications, Shepton Beauchamp, Somerset (2008).