
VOLKSWAGEN BEETLE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF POPULAR CULTURE
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quality. Vreeland, famous for coining the term ‘‘Youthquake,’’
focused on the changing ideas of fashion in the 1960s. Under her
hand, Vogue became even more fashion oriented, with many more
pages devoted to clothing and accessories. Imagination and fantasy
were the ideals to portray within the pages of the magazine. Clothes
were colorful, bright, revealing, and filled with geometric shapes that
played with the elements of sex and fun. Additionally, during this era,
models no longer became merely mannequins but personalities. The
photographs depicted the models in action-filled poses, often outside
of a studio setting. The women became identifiable; Suzy Parker,
Penelope Tree, Twiggy, and Verushka became household names and
paved the way for Cindy, Claudia, Christy, and Naomi, the supermodels
of the 1980s and 1990s.
Collaborating with photographers such as Helmut Newton,
Sarah Moon, and Deborah Tuberville, Grace Mirabella (Editor-in-
Chief, July 1971 to October 1988) also brought a sensual quality to
the magazine; the blatant sexualized images from the 1960s became
more understated, although no less potent. Tinged with erotic and
sometimes violent imagery, the fashion layouts featured clothing with
less of an exhibitionist quality; apparel became more practical. Filling
the fashion pages were blue denim garments and easy to wear attire.
Mirabella, in keeping with this practicality, adapted the magazine to a
monthly publication. At this time, Vogue also shrank in cut size to
conform to postal codes. As a result, each page became packed with
information; Vogue became a magazine formulated for a society filled
with working women on the go.
The tradition of Vogue as a publication that covers all aspects of
each generation continues. Under the guidance of Anna Wintour
(Editor-in-Chief, November 1988—) the magazine has expanded
beyond only reporting cultural and political issues and presenting
fashion trends, and is now considered to validate new designs and
designers. Vogue continually seeks out, presents, and promotes new
ideas regarding clothing, accessories, and beauty products, and as a
magazine entertains, educates, and guides millions of women.
—Jennifer Jankauskas
F
URTHER READING:
Devlin, Polly, with an introduction by Alexander Liberman. Vogue
Book of Fashion Photography. London, Thames and Hudson, 1979.
Kazajian, Dodie, and Calvin Tomkins. Alex: The Life of Alexander
Liberman. New York, A.A. Knopf, 1993.
Lloyd, Valerie. The Art of Vogue Photographic Covers: Fifty Years of
Fashion and Design. New York, Harmony Books, 1986.
Volkswagen Beetle
The phenomenal success of Volkswagen’s diminutive two-door
sedan in the American automobile market in the 1950s and 1960s was
a classic example of conventional wisdom proven false. Detroit’s car
manufacturers and their advertising agencies marketed large, com-
fortable cars with futuristic styling and plenty of extra gadgets.
Futuristic rocket fins were in, and the more headlights and tail lights,
the better. ‘‘Planned obsolescence’’ was built in: the look and feel of
each year’s models were to be significantly different from those of the
previous year. But throughout the 1950s, there was a persistent niche
market in foreign cars, particularly among better-educated drivers
who thought that Detroit’s cars looked vulgar and silly, and who were
appalled by their low mileage. Most European imports got well over
20 miles per gallon to an American automobile’s eight. The German
manufacturers of the Volkswagen claimed that their ‘‘people’s car’’
got 32 miles per gallon at 50 miles an hour. Moreover, it was virtually
impossible to tell a 1957 VW from a 1956 one—or indeed, from the
1949 model, of which just two had been imported, by way of Holland.
(The first ‘‘Transporter’’ microbus sold in America arrived in 1950.)
To be sure, VW’s sedan looked odd—rather like a scarab, which
is why it was soon dubbed the ‘‘Beetle’’—but it worked. Its rear-
mounted, air-cooled, four-cylinder 1200-cc engine proved extremely
durable, with some owners reporting life spans in the high hundreds
of thousands of miles. The cars had been designed so that they could
be maintained by the owner, and many of them were, particularly by
young owners who bought them used. And the microbus, with the
same engine as the Beetle and a body only slightly longer, could hold
an entire rock band and its instruments and still climb mountains. (It
became so closely associated with the hippie movement that when the
leader of the Grateful Dead died, VW ran an ad showing a microbus
with a tear falling from its headlight and the headline ‘‘Jerry Garcia.
1942-1995.’’)
Developed by Dr. Ferdinand Porsche, the car had been ordered
by German citizens for the first time in 1938 under the name ‘‘KdF-
Wagen’’ (KdF stood for ‘‘Kraft durch Freude,’’ ‘‘strength through
joy.’’), but war had broken out the following year, and the factory at
Wolfsburg switched over, for the duration, to making a military
version, the Kübelwagen (‘‘bucketmobile’’), and its amphibious
sibling, the Schwimmwagen, until Allied planes bombed operations
to a standstill. After the war, VW rebuilt its factory and resumed
production, first under the British occupying forces, and subsequently
under Heinrich Nordhoff, VW’s CEO until his death in 1969.
From their modest beginnings, sales of imported VWs in Ameri-
ca grew steadily. In 1955, the company incorporated in the United
States as Volkswagen of America. In 1959, it hired a sassy new
advertising agency, DDB Needham, which had already raised eye-
brows with its ‘‘You Don’t Have to Be Jewish to Love Levy’s Jewish
Rye’’ campaign. DDB’s first ad was three columns of dense type
explaining the advantages of buying the VW sedan, broken up only by
three photos—all of the car.
It soon became apparent that people already knew what the
Beetle looked like, and had looked like for 10 years, that it got great
mileage, and that it cost less than anything from Detroit ($1545 new in
1959, still only $2000 in 1964). What they needed was a reason to
identify with a nonconformist automobile. So DDB switched to ads
containing very little copy, a picture of the car, a very short, startling
headline in sans-serif type, and a lot of white space. One DDB
headline was ‘‘Ugly is only skin-deep.’’ Another simply read ‘‘Lem-
on.’’ A third, turning one of Madison Avenue’s favorite catchphrases
of the day on its head, said ‘‘Think Small.’’ Indeed, almost all of
DDB’s VW ads were the conspicuous antithesis of conventional auto
advertising. ‘‘Where are they now?’’ showed 1949 models of six cars,
five by companies which had gone out of business in the subsequent
decade. In the 1960s, the focus of the campaign shifted to true stories
of satisfied customers with unusual angles: the rural couple who
bought a VW after the mule died, the priest whose North Dakota
mission had a total of 30 Beetles, the Alabama police department
which got a VW sedan for its meter patrol.
Although VW lost some of its market share in the 1970s once
Detroit, spurred by the 1973 OPEC oil embargo, began concentrating