
384 INDUSTRIAL FERMENTATIONS
Ice Cream and Ices.
Back in the middle of the eighteenth century in Italy .the art of
making "sorbetto" was carried to a high point of perfection. The art
loving Italians of that period were famed for their tastes for these
delicacies. They were made in colors to imitate flowers, fruits, build-
ings",
and statues. Wiley says these dishes were called "sorbetto" in
Italy, "glace
1
" in France and "ices" in England. In this country most
frozen dishes are called ice cream.
It is said that Dolly Madison invented American ice cream.
Thyra Winslow writing in the Illustrated World says that while this
is not true, it is no doubt true that the first ice cream served as part
of a dinner was at the White House during the administration of
President Madison. It is said' that the guests were so delighted with
the new dish that they all wished to imitate it in their own homes.
Since this introduction of ice cream, it has increased in popularity
and has grown in use steadily.
Thyra Winslow says
1
that the first ice cream of the Philadelphia
type was made in London in about 1800 by a confectioner named
Gunton. She says that Gunton's methods of freezing were very orude.
Some years later the method of making ice cream was greatly facili-
tated by the invention of the ice cream freezer by Nancy Johnson,
the wife of an American Naval Officer.
Frandsen and Markham in their book on ice cream and ices men-
tion the fact that a New York newspaper, The Post Boy, in 1786,
contained an advertisement for ice cream. This no doubt was an
advertisement for the Neapolitan type of custard cream which was
made in the home for years before the introduction of the Philadelphia
type.
For many years the Philadelphia type was popular as a delicacy
only in the home and only on special occasions. It was perhaps little
thought of as having food value. A little later caterers began to use
it considerably and by 1850 the wholesale manufacture of ice cream
was undertaken in Baltimore. Jacob Fussell, a milk dealer of Balti-
more, began to practice using up his
1
extra sweet cream by manufactur-
ing it into ice cream. He succeeded to the extent that he later went
out of the milk business entirely and became exclusively an ice cream
manufacturer, establishing plants also in Washington, Boston, and
New York City.
Brazelton, an employee of Fussell's, a little later, established ice
cream plants in St. Louis, Cincinnati, and Chicago. It is interesting
to note that J. M. Horton, who died in 1914, bought Fussell's New
York ice cream plant. Horton was then a young man of 22. This
same ice cream plant was estimated in 1910 at $600,000. Horton left
an estate of $4,000,000. These facte give a clear idea of what the ice
cream factory of to-day must be to compete in the large city trade.
This enormous ice cream business has been pretty largely developed
by use of one type, the Philadelphia ice cream, although the increase