neck round and rather long- but let not Adam's apple show; the
shoulders should be broad, the bosom full- with a gentle fall and
swell; the hands white and plump and soft; the legs long, the feet
small. `052054 We perceive that Firenzuola had spent much time
contemplating his subject, and had discovered an admirable new topic
for philosophy.
Not content with these gifts, Renaissance woman, like any other,
dyed her hair- almost always to blonde- and added false locks to
fill it out; peasant women, having spent their beauty, cut off their
tresses and hung them out for sale. `052055 Perfumes were a mania in
sixteenth-century Italy: hair, hats, shirts, stockings, gloves, shoes,
all had to be scented; Aretino thanks Duke Cosimo for perfuming the
roll of money he had sent him; "some objects that date from that
period have not yet lost their odor." `052056 A well-to-do woman's
dressing table was a wilderness of cosmetics, usually in fancy
containers of ivory, silver, or gold. Rouge was applied not only to
the face but to the breasts, which in the larger cities were left
mostly bare. `052057 Various preparations were used to remove
blemishes, to polish the fingernails, to render the skin soft and
smooth. Flowers were placed in the hair and on the dress. Pearls,
diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, agates, amethysts, beryls,
topazes, or garnets adorned the fingers in rings, the arms in
bracelets, the head in tiaras, and (after 1525) the ears in
earrings; besides which jewelry might be studded into the headgear,
the dress, the shoes, and the fan.
Feminine dress, if we may judge from the portraits, was rich, heavy,
and uncomfortable. Velvets, silks, and furs hung in massive folds from
the shoulders or- when the shoulders were bare- from fastenings over
the breasts. Dresses were bound with a girdle at the waist, and
swept the floor behind the feet. The shoes of the well-to-do woman
were high of both sole and heel, to protect her feet from the filth of
the streets; nevertheless the upper portion was often of delicate
brocade. Handkerchiefs were now in use in the upper classes; they were
made of fine linen, often striped with gold thread or fringed with
lace. Petticoats and lingerie were trimmed with lace and embroidered
with silk. Sometimes the dress reached up around the neck in a ruff
stiffened with metal ribs, and occasionally rising above the head. The