
hardware, appliances and even pre-fabricated housing. Sears, like J.C.Penney’s and
Montgomery Wards, overcame dislocations in space to unify America as a nation o
consumers. Yet, by the 1950s, sales by mail and through order centers competed with
their own
department stores,
especially as they anchored
malls
supplying
suburban
home-owners. Later, these companies themselves, built on mass marketing and
economies of scale, faced competition from warehouse and discount sales, leading to
crises for all these retailers. Restructuring to define their consumption niches, Sears and
Penney’s let their catalogs die in the 1990s.
Meanwhile, another story of catalogs took shape around American mobility in the
upper middle class. Department stores like
Dallas’
Neiman-Marcus and specialty
entrepreneurs such as L.L. Bean and
Eddie Bauer
in outdoor clothing appealed to more
sophisticated clients who were not outside American consumption, but dispersed through
it. Book-of-the-Month clubs and spin-offs reinforced associations of culture and
distribution of goods within imagined “communities.” Through the 1970s and 1980s, this
upscale marketing by mail exploded, combining glossy pictures and stylized captioning,
ready telephone access, credit-card purchasing and targeted mailing. These catalogs
responded to diverse upscale neighborhoods where aspirations differed from household to
household. Moreover, they responded to new dislocations in time in two-career
households where 24-hour accessibility from home facilitated consumption as an
interstitial activity
Thousands of catalogs today seem to reflect American diversity Some transcend their
connections with mall retailers. Neiman Marcus’ Christmas extravaganza has become a
regular news feature, while Victoria’s Secret has become a part of American dialogues o
heterosexual romance and sensuality including a television spin-off,
Veronica’s Closet
(1997–). Another catalog, based on the adventures of a fictional J.Peterman, became a
regular feature of the long-running
sitcom
Seinfeld
. Catalogs also transform geography:
L.L.Bean has turned its Maine home-town into a mercantile center, and
museums
extend
their recognition and support through sales of high cultural artifacts. Others create
different imagined communities:
National Public Radio
offers culture with an attitude,
from T-shirts to video collections. These catalogs nonetheless accumulate in mailboxes
and on coffee tables with other catalogs that reinforce consumptive identities (Marlboro
cigarette gear or a Mercedes-Benz owner’s catalog),
ethnicity
or even
life cycles—birth
is greeted in middle-class zip codes by catalogs offering advice, products and status
insecurity about the baby’s “right start.” Clothes, gifts, art and food all have been
depicted, described and distributed in a booming industry that reminds Americans o
what is missing in the midst of affluence.
Yet, through barriers of access and credit, these sales also reinforce divisions within
American life—mailings by zip code and usage constantly divide potential customers
from those outside specialized consumer worlds.
Television
sales networks prove more
inclusive, while stressing the same features of visual imagery and descriptions that
identify the consumer as well as the product: one is told who one will be as a consumer
and how to show off products as well as use them.
Internet
sales and virtual catalogs
Entries A-Z 193