
individual effort, originally self-
ublished. Early editions met the needs of a world where
domestic service was disappearing. Collecting recipes from friends and additional
information that now seems dated in its reliance on canned soups or overcooked pasta,
Rombauer later adapted easily followed recipes to new conditions like wartime rationing.
This tradition of change was continued by her daughter and her grandson, who produced
the new 1997 edition. This last comprehensive volume—which ranges from beating eggs
to comparing caviars—takes into account sophisticated palates and distinctions between
newly available ingredients, global cuisines, health concerns and family dynamics that
make
pizza
a meal category
J
oy of Cooking
emerged in a relatively limited market. Postwar prosperity and nuclear
family
domesticity changed the needs and markets for cooking guidance.
Magazines
and
the press also taught cooking (including published collections from food editors like the
ew York Times’
Craig Clairborne).
Television
food shows also appeared with the
earliest stations, incorporating cooking teachers like Dionne Lucas and showman cooks
like James Beard, who linked his recipes to commercial endorsements as well as
cookbooks. Julia Childs’ inimitable
PBS
French Chef
(1963–73), with sequels, set new
standards in cookbooks and television for generations to come, re-establishing food and
an acceptance of kitchen mistakes that French cuisine as a goal, yet doing so with a love
of demystified haute cuisine. Her success was followed by other PBS shows and a
cable
food channel, again often linked to cookbook sales and celebrities.
Meanwhile, advertisers supplied recipes to enhance sales and create new uses for their
roducts, from gelatin to cream cheese to soup. This onslaught for the food consumer
increased with new machines—pressure cookers to microwaves to breadmakers—that
altered the American
kitchen
. Some products, in fact, became identified with specific
recipes: Nestle’s chocolate chips and Toll House cookies or Chex cereals and snack
mixes.
Other cookbooks have expanded with affluence and leisure, as well as exposure to new
immigrants and travel. Prominent among cookbook categories and television shows are
those that champion cuisines of Italy France and Asia, as well as domestic regional/ethnic
specializations like
Cajun, Southwestern
or soul food. Celebrity chefs become
multimedia institutions with restaurants (chains), cookbooks, shows and guest
appearances. Other writers incorporate the ethnography of food into their writings, like
Paula Wolfert on the circum-Mediterranean or Marcella Hazan on Italy. Newspaper
sections and magazines targeting affluent consumers—
Saveur, Food and Wine,
Gourmet
—also combine narrative, pictorials and recipes. Often, these make demands on
time and ingredients that set the process and results of cooking apart from everyday
eating, reinforcing its cultural capital in the middle class. Other cookbooks meet
specialized interests and needs, whether in preparation categories—
asic, grilling,
baking, speedy etc.—or nutrition and diet, featuring light, low-fat and salt-free foods.
Clubs, schools, churches and other groups also elaborate
community
through
cookbooks and cookbook sales. Folklorists and anthropologists have examined these food
ways and contributed celebrations and collections patronized by institutions like the
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