
senses of style—Wallis Simpson, Grace
Kelly,
Jackie Kennedy
Onassis
—other
prominent women have been embraced for their “sensible” look—like
First Ladies
Mamie Eisenhower, Pat Nixon, Barbara
Bush
or even the power-suited Hillary Clinton.
Hollywood
stars are often taken as the epitome of male fashion, from Cary Grant to
Denzel
Washington
. For men not directly involved in fashion or media of display an
interest in fashion is often taken as anomalous, or even a failing in
masculinity
. Despite
the “Peacock Revolution” of the 1960s, which introduced
hippie
clothes, colors and
extravagant styles, American male fashion in public realms remains conservative and
unobtrusive.
Despite these consistencies in general choices and ideal types, the American fashion
industry has offered more and more new choices and forms of consumption and display
since the end of the Second World War rationing. It has also aggressively asserted an
American ethos in fashion—and fashion production—in distinction to European couture.
The pioneer designers of the 1960s included Halston, Mary McFadden and Anne Klein,
who extended their influence through ready-to-wear clothes, many of which appealed to
middle-class
women entering the workforce, balancing jobs and style. The 1960s were
also marked by more idiosyncratic fashions associated with hippies and imported
Carnaby Street designs, as well as the rise of designer jeans.
Subsequent decades saw the rise and globalization of many important American
designers. Donna Karan designed clothes for the professional woman, Ralph Lauren
offered classic, “preppy clothes,” while Calvin Klein, Perry Ellis and others established
visible looks and trademarks. The 1980s, according to Silverman (1986), became an era
to celebrate aristocratic clothes in design as well as exhibits—and in the presidential style
of the
Reagan
White House.
Designers continued to emerge and change in the 1990s. Tommy Hilfiger has appealed
to the youth market, while Vera Wang and others competed in specialty gowns. New
designers debut at New York’s Fashion Week or outside Bryant Park. Production o
many of these labels, however, has moved offshore. Americans also continue to buy from
European designers: elite shopping areas like
New York’s
Fifth Avenue,
Los Angeles’
Rodeo Drive or
Miami’s
Bal Harbour offer boutiques for Chanel, Prada, Fendi, Gucci,
Armani, Zegna and other global fashion logos. Meanwhile, American designers have
been hired to revitalize staid European lines.
Many of these designers, in fact, offer multiple divisions to reflect differential
purchasing power. While Donna Karan’s name marks her expensive line, for example,
DKNY provides a pricey but mass market alternative; Calvin Klein and CK follow the
same division, reinforcing a design empire through multiple products and sales, although
also risking over-extension.
While these lines reinforce divisions of
class
and gender, fashion also raises important
questions about age and
race
. High fashion often offers clothes that look good on the
young, but often only the older rich can afford them. Certainly, female fashion models,
who have emerged as celebrities in their own right, have tended to offer young, thin and
sometimes exotic looks and bodies. This has led to complaints about the objectification o
Encyclopedia of Contemporary American Culture 410