product (around 1,700 billion lire annually). A contribution to the diffusion of pasta has
certainly been made by Italian emigrants who have taken their culinary traditions—
among which a love of pasta—to their host countries. Pasta thus came to be widely
imitated and manufactured outside Italy, though not always successfully because,
according to the experts, too often the wheat varieties used are not appropriate so that the
consistency of the pasta obtained is not comparable with that made in Italy.
Until the invention of pasta-making machines in the first decade of the nineteenth
century, pasta was made by hand, at home, by skilled women. The homemade or
handcrafted varieties of pasta fresca (fresh pasta) are made with a type of soft wheat
semolina, while industrially manufactured pasta (which involves a complex series of
operations, for example, a lengthy drying procedure) predominantly uses durum wheat
semolina to obtain pasta secca.
The cooking of pasta does not require special skills. It needs boiling water—
approximately 1 litre per 100 gr of pasta—and when the water reaches its boiling point
salt must be added, before the pasta is also added two minutes later. Stirring gently while
cooking helps to prevent the pasta from sticking together. Cooking times vary, depending
on the pasta type; tasting is probably the wisest way to satisfy personal preferences.
Over-cooking pasta is a major culinary (and cultural) heresy for Italians; the expression
al dente identifies the ideal consistency of the pasta in whatever recipe is presented. After
being cooked, the pasta must be carefully drained. Pastasciutta (the term derives from the
elimination of all water) is a general label covering dishes of pasta cooked as described
above and then seasoned with various sauces. Widely popular and always in demand,
both in the motherland and abroad, are dishes such as pasta alla bolognese, pasta alla
marinara, penne all’arrabbiata and pasta all’amatriciana, all of which originated in the
rich traditions of regional cooking.
Lasagne deserves its own special attention and, as already mentioned, is a very old
variety of pasta, which can be homemade using light flour and eggs. Of course there are
also excellent manufactured lasagne, which only require a longer amount of time in
boiling water. Cut into large rectangular strips, after boiling and draining at the al dente
stage, they are placed in buttered oven dishes, covered with sauces and layers of other
ingredients such as meat balls and mozzarella cheese and are then baked and eaten hot,
after a settling period of approximately ten minutes. The recipes for lasagna are numerous
and may vary from region to region. There is an original but hardly known variety
created for the Bourbon royal family, in eighteenthcentury Naples, which uses a
bechamel sauce (of French ancestry), egg yolks and artichoke hearts. However, in the
North, lasagna sauces almost always include meat.
There exist literally hundreds of dishes based on pasta, each region having its own
specialities. New recipes are also constantly being created and, at times, new fashions
dictate contingent rules (for example, the trend for fresh pasta dishes flavoured with
cream-based sauces combined with other ingredients, or the craze for old recipes of rural
ancestry). However, the witty remark that the most conspicuous sign of Italy’s unification
was not language, but the ceremony taking place every day when in all the kitchens of the
peninsula, around midday, pasta is plunged into the boiling water, probably reveals more
than a touch of truth about the Italian identity.
Classic recipes for pasta dishes are known to travel across mountains and oceans and
have acquired worldwide approval. This phenomenon, however, conceals potential
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