Peterson A.T., Hewitt V., Vaughan H., Kellogg A.T. The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History, 1900 to the Present. Volume 1: 1900-1949
Подождите немного. Документ загружается.
Some sundresses had halter necks or peplums. Two-piece sundresses
sometimes bared the midriff. In those dresses, a sleeveless or cap-sleeve
top was paired with an A-line or full skirt. Some two-piece dresses came
with shorts as an alternate to the skirt.
Separates
Blouses/Shirts. Typically, blouses had dar ts and seams to fit smoothly
against the contours of the torso. Simply tailored blouses were common.
They had Peter Pan, rolled, notched, or shawl collars, straight sleeves that
gathered into the cuff, and sometimes a breast pocket.
Pants. Denim pants, which were known as jeans, were an extremely
popular casual wear choice. Most styles had a tailored look with a narrow
waistband, a pleated front to give a round hip, and creases. Most jeans
were ankle length, but many young women rolled up the hem until it was
just beneath the knee. Other casual pants followed the same silhouette
and were usually worn with a belt. Generally, shorts were upper thigh
length and creased.
Other Separates. Sweaters were form fitting and either tucked into the
waist of skirts or pants or left untucked and accessorized with a belt.
Matching cardigans and pullovers were also popular.
Decorative Details
Silhouette. Boxy shoulders with loose blouse and wide-legged slacks gave
way to tightly fitting straight-legged slacks and tight sweaters. The New
Look for casual wear featured a modified hourglass appearance with fitted
waist and full skirt or flounced jacket just below the waistline, providing
more accent to the hips.
Dresses. Early in the decade, two-piece full-skirted dresses were popu-
lar in cotton with bright plaids, stripes, and gingham for summer, and
heavier wool suit styles for cooler weather. Skirts fell just below the knee
before the war, with full or pleated skirts. The New Look had an influ-
ence on casual dresses with fitted bodice and waist and very full skirt.
Separates. The New Look influenced sweater styles to be tighter, skirts
to be well below the knee, and slacks to fit the hips, better accenting tiny
waistlines and curvy hips.
OUTERWEAR
Coats
Coats followed the fashionable silhouette of daywear. The New Look
took advantage of the end of fabric restriction. Capes and coats included
hoods by 1947, again taking advantage of restrictions having been lifted.
240
WOMEN’S FASHIONS
Raglan and kimono sleeves were popular. Three-quarter-length sleeves
were worn with long gloves. Full coats were flared in the skirt, and swing
styles became popular. Short jackets were popular because they could be
easily worn with full skirt styles.
Opulence being stylish again after the war, the late forties saw a
renewal in the use of fur and faux fur. Red fox and silver fox were popular
for swing coats, both in tuxedo st yle with slash pockets. Fur stoles or a se-
ries of martens or mink were draped over the top of a coat.
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Swimwear
Both one- and two-piece swimsuits were popular during the late 1940s.
Generally, two-piece suits showed little skin between the bra and bottom.
Some suits had bottoms like shorts, whereas others had skirts. Cotton,
nylon, and Lastex were the most popular fabrics. Strapless, halter necks,
and suits with straps were common. The bra or bodice of the suit was fit-
ted and used darts for an uplifted bust line.
Golf
Typically, women did not wear special clothing to the golf course. They
usually paired a blouse and sweater with shorts, long pants, or a skirt.
Some golf blouses had extra pleats of fabric at the shoulders to accommo-
date a woman’s golf swing.
Tennis
On the tennis court, women wore button-front blouses or knitted tops
that were sleeveless or had short sleeves. These were worn with short
skirts or shorts. Most tennis clubs required players to wear white, but
women who played on public courts usually wore colored outfits.
Skiwear
When skiing, some women wore wool pants and short jackets, whereas
others wore snow suits, which consisted of narrow pants with a matching
narrow-waisted jacket.
UNDERWEAR AND INTIMATE APPAREL
Undergarments
By the end of the forties, ladies’ undergarments had transitioned into two
separate pieces, the bra and girdle. To achieve the New Look, women
wore confining undergarments that had not been worn since the 1910s.
1947–1949, The New Look
241
New synthetic fabrics allowed women to avoid the painful boning and lac-
ing that had been required earlier in the century. Bras lifted the breasts
into the fashionable peaked shape, and strapless bras were worn under-
neath strapless dresses. Girdles, which were also known as foundation gar-
ments, were made from tight elastic panels that nipped the waist.
Attached to the girdle, there were garters to hold up stockings.
Petticoats were worn beneath full skirts. Permanently stiffened fabric
was attached to the hem of the petticoat. For evening and wedding
dresses, the full skirts were supported by hoop skirts.
Nylon stockings were once again available after the war and even came
back as an improved version. As a result of technologies developed during
the war, nylon stockings kept their shape better and were less prone to sags
and wrinkles. They transitioned from a seam up the back to a later seamless
version. Women were slow to appreciate the seamless version because bare
legs were considered inappropriate, and the presence of a seam was an indi-
cation of proper attire. As women grew tired of straightening twisted
seams, the seamless version gradually increased in popularity.
Sleepwear
Nightgowns were popular, but they had fuller skirts than they had during
the war years. The bodices tended to be close fitting and the gowns were
often made from sheer material. Two-piece pajamas were also popular.
HEADWEAR,HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS
Headwear
After the war, women continued to wear a vast variety of hat types. Some
styles that were fashionable during the war, including the beret and the
bonnet, continued to be worn. New angles on berets were popularized.
One style featured a pompon off the side, and another involved an over-
sized beret secured to the head with a hatpin.
Some new styles emerged, such as small net hats worn on the side of the
head an d covered in an open net veil. By 1949, pillbox hats adorned with
feather or veils became popular . Cloches with bonnet brims were also
popular.
Hairstyles
As the decade came to a close, women began cutting their hair shorter
and arranging it in waves and curls close to the head. S hort bangs
became popular, too.
242
WOMEN’S FASHIONS
Cosmetics
After the war, women indulged in cosmetics that had not been available dur-
ing the war . Sun-kissed skin was popular, and pancake makeup , powder, and
rouge were used to achieve the ideal, flawless complexion. Max F actor intro-
duced the first smear-proof lipstick, Tru Color, in 1940 and panstick makeup
in 1948. Twist-up tubes of lipstick were used by most women, and they often
had exotic names such as Tahiti Rose and Black Magic (P ointer 2005). Nails
were worn long and lacquered.
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Footwear
Post-war shoes came in all shapes and sizes. Most shoes were high heeled
and came in a variety of styles, including open toe, slingback, closed toed,
and sandals. Platforms remained popular through the decade. Shoes were
decorated with bows, punch-outs, multicolors, buckles, nail heads, alliga-
tor grain, and raffia. Women’s shoe wardrobes became extensive because it
became fashionable to closely match one’s shoes with each outfit.
Popular casual and sport shoes included canvas tennis shoes, loafers,
ballet slippers, and flat sandals.
Legwear
For most occasions, women wore stockings, or ‘‘nylons’’ as they had become
known. The more popular style had a seam that ran up the back of the legs.
Short cotton socks known as anklets were also worn.
NECKWEAR AND OTHER ACCESSORIES
Jewelry
Necklaces usually fit close to the neck. Bracelets and earrings were com-
monly worn. Jewelry was frequently adorned with imitation pearls, glass
stones, and rhinestones.
Handbags
Handbags continued to be large shoulder bags as they had been during
the war. Leather began to be used as a material again, and, as metal
became plentiful again, clasp styles became popular.
Other Accessories
Women wore both leather and cloth gloves. Daytime gloves were usually
wrist length or slightly longer.
1947–1949, The New Look
243
REFERENCES
Baker, P. 1992. Fashions of a Decade: The 1940s. New York: Facts on File.
Baudot, F. 1999. Fashion: The Twentieth Century. London: Thames and Hudson,
Limited.
Blum, S. 1981. Ever yday Fashions of the Twenties as Pictured in Sears and Other
Catalogs. New York: Dover Publications.
Blum, S. 1986. Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs. New
York: Dover Publications.
Bordwell, D., and Thompson, K. 2002. Film History: An Introduction. 2nd revised
edition. Columbus, OH: McGraw Hill.
Buxbaum, G., ed. Icons of Fashion: The Twentieth Century. New York: Prestel.
Eyles, A. 1987. That Was Hollywood: The 1930s. London: Batsford.
Flappers: The Birth of the 20th Century Woman. Produced by K. Botting. Prince-
ton, NJ: Films for the Humanities and Sciences, 2001.
Israel, B. 2002. Bachelor Girl: The Secret History of Single Women in the Twentieth
Century. New York: William Morrow.
Keenan, B. 1978. The Women We Wanted to Look Like. London: Macmillan Lon-
don Limited.
Kellogg, A. T., Peterson, A. T., Bay, S., and Swindell, N. 2002. In an Influential
Fashion: An Encyclopedia of Nineteenth and Twentieth Century Fashion Design-
ers and Retailers Who Shaped Dress. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press.
Laubner, E. 1996. Fashions of the Roaring ’20s. Atglen, PA: Schiffer Publishing.
Laubner, E. 2000. Collectible Fashions of the Turbulent 1930s. Atglen, PA: Schiffer
Publishing.
Lee-Potter, C. 1984. Sportswear in Vogue since 1910. London: Thames and
Hudson.
Mordden. 1978. That Jazz! An Idiosyncratic Social History of the American Twen-
ties. New York: Putnam.
New York Times. 1915. ‘‘Latest Customs Rulings,’’ December 4.
New York Times. 1924. ‘‘Pretty Materials in Endless Variety,’’ May 11, X10.
New York Times. 1930. ‘‘Spring Styles Ban the Short Skirt,’’ January 15, 27.
Nolan, C. Ladies Fashion of the 1940s. http://www.murrayonhawaii.com/nolan/
fashionhistory 1940ladies.html.
Ogren, K. J. 1989. The Jazz Revolution: Twenties America and the Meaning of Jazz.
New York: Oxford University Press.
Olian, J., ed. 1990. Authentic French Fashions of the Twenties: 413 Costume Designs
from ‘‘L’Art et la Mode.’’ Toronto: Dover Publications.
Olian, J., ed. 1992. Everyday Fashions of the Forties: As Pictured in Sears Catalogs.
New York: Dover Publications.
Olian, J. 1995. Everyday Fashions 1909–1920: As Pictured in Sears Catalogs. New
York: Dover Publications.
244
WOMEN’S FASHIONS
Olian, J., ed. 1998. Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from ‘‘La Mode Illustree.’’
Mineola, NY: Dover Publications.
Peacock, J. 1998. Fashion Sourcebooks: The 1940s. New York: Thames and
Hudson.
Peacock, J. 2000. Fashion Accessories: The Complete 20th Century Sourcebooks with
2000 Full Color Illustrations. London: Thames and Hudson.
Pointer, S. 2005. The Artifice of Beauty: A History and Practical Guide to Perfumes
and Cosmetics. Gloucestershire, UK: Sutton Publishing Limited.
Probert, C. 1981a. Hats in Vogue since 1910. New York: Abbeville Press.
Probert, C. 1981b. Swimwear in Vogue since 1910. London: Thames and Hudson.
Richardson, D. E., ed. 1982. Vanity Fair: Photographs of an Age, 1914–1936. New
York: Clarkson N. Potter.
Rittenhouse, A. 1910. ‘‘What the Well Dressed Women Are Wearing,’’ New York
Times, April 10.
Rowbotham, S. 1997. A Century of Women. New York: Penguin Books.
Seeling, C. 2000. Fashion: The Century of the Designer 1900–1999. English edi-
tion. Cologne, Germany: Konemann.
Tortora, P. G., and Eubank, K. 2005. Survey of Historic Costume: A History of
Western Dress, 4th Edition. New York: Fairchild Publications.
Ware, S. 1982. Holding Their Own: American Women in the 1930s. Boston: G. K.
Hall.
Washington Post. 1920. ‘‘Of Interest to Women,’’ January 12, 8.
Washington Post. 1935. ‘‘Rows of Buttons Decline in Favor,’’ October 17, F4.
Watson, L. 2004. 20th Century Fashion. Buffalo, NY: Firefly Books.
Wilson, V. P. 1925. ‘‘Gowns,’’ Washington Post, December 20, X5.
1947–1949, The New Look
245
8
Men’s Fashions
OVERVIEW
The shifts in men’s fashions were not as dramatic as women’s and child-
ren’s during the period from 1900 to 1949. There were slight silhouette
changes each decade, but many of the popular styles, such as the trench
coat, the sack coat, and evening jacket, endured essentially unchanged for
most of the period. Even the fabrics and patterns used to create suits and
coats remained in fashion decade after decade.
The two world wars during this period influenced men’s fashion. They
popularized military styles, especially in outerwear. The trench coat
emerged from WWI as a favorite of soldiers and civilians alike. The navy
pea coat and Eisenhower jacket were styles that were used by the military
during WWII and gained popularity among both male and female
civilians.
Rationing during the wars had an effect on men’s fashion as well.
Restrictions on the fabric used in garments narrowed fashionable silhou-
ettes. The scarcity of natural fibers led to the use of artificial fibers, such
as rayon, which continued to be a widely used menswear fabric after
WWII.
After WWI, many men had more leisure time and fewer formal occa-
sions. As a result, men began wearing casual wear more often and to a
wider variety of occasions. By the 1940s, men had a wide variety of casual
247
wear. At the same time, fashions in formalwear became stagnant. Other
than slight modifications in silhouette, the dinner jacket and tuxedo jacket
remained constant styles.
Athleticism became a desirable trait in men, and sports became a pop-
ular way to spend leisure time. The variety of sportswear increased, and it
progressively became more oriented to performance. Innovations such as
knit shirts, waterproof and windproof ski clothes, and raglan sleeves
enhanced men’s performance in a range of sports, including swimming,
golf, and tennis.
A greater emphasis was placed on the comfort and functionality of
men’s clothing. The starched shirts and hard collars of the first decade of
the century gave way to knit shirts and soft collars. For casual occasions,
sweaters were worn instead of jackets. Over the course of this period, the
silhouette of men’s clothing became looser and fuller, and it enhanced an
athletic physique. By the 1940s, men no longer wore garters to hold up
socks or suspenders to hold up their pants. Even underwear had been made
more comfortable, with breathable fabrics and less restrictive construction.
THE
1900S
Men’s wear was far slower to transition to new silhouettes and cuts than
women’s wear during the 1900s.
FORMAL WEAR
Silhouette
During the 1900s, the men’s silhouette graduall y became more fitted.
Jackets moved from a barrel silhouette to one with a closer-fitting waist
and less-exaggerated shoulder padding. Pants became narrower in the leg.
Jackets and Vest
There were three main types of formal suits for men during the first dec-
ade of the twentieth century. The Prince Albert suit was a style that had
endured from the previous century. It featured a doubled-breasted, knee-
length black jacket that was fitted at the waist and flared out at the hem.
Beneath the jacket, men would wear a five-button single-breasted vest
with a notched collar. The pants were cut full at the waist and more nar-
rowly in the leg. They were usually patterned.
Two more modern styles gained popularity and acceptance during this
period. The full dress suit featured a black jacket that was cut to the waist
248
MEN’S FASHIONS
in the front and extended into ‘‘tails’’ that reached the knee in the back. A
low-cut black or white vest was worn beneath the jacket. Tapered black
peg-top pants were also worn. The dinner jacket or tuxedo suit, as it was
informally called, had a black hip-length jacket, which had lapels that
were faced with black satin. It was worn with a three-button, low-cut vest
and black pants.
Shirts
Formal suits were worn with a plain or pleated white shirt and tie. The
shirts usually had stiffened fronts. Black ties were often worn with dinner
jackets.
Pants
The prevailing pant style was cut loose in the hip and close fitting in the
leg.
Decorative Details
Formal suits were made from wool and worn with black patent leather
shoes.
BUSINESS WEAR
Silhouette
The silhouette of men’s business wear shifted over the course of the
1900s. Although the barrel-chested silhouette dominated at the turn of
the century, it gradually changed to a more youthful look with a narrower
waist and legs.
Jackets and Vest
Businessmen wore suits, whereas laborers wore sturdier pants and shirts.
Jackets were cut long and buttoned high, and they had small lapels. Early
in the decade, they were cut full through the torso and padded at the
shoulders. Suit jackets were dark colored, whereas vests were light or
colored.
Shirts
Shirts continued to be available with hard detatchable collars or sof t
attached collars. The height of collars gradually decreased. White and col-
ored shirts were fashionable, and many men wore shirts patterned with
dots or stripes.
The 1900s
249