Peterson A.T., Hewitt V., Vaughan H., Kellogg A.T. The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History, 1900 to the Present. Volume 1: 1900-1949
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Pants
Pants were cut full in the hip and seat, and they were worn both with and
without creases down the front. For business wear, typically the pants
matched the jacket.
Decorative Details
Generally, suits were made from dark-colored wool serge, and dark blue
was an especially popular color. During the summer, suits were made from
lightweight fabrics, including flannel, linen, and lightweight serge.
CASUAL WEAR
Silhouette
For informal social occasions, men typically wore a sports jacket, pants,
and shirt. The jacket was a loose-fitting sack jacket that became more fit-
ted later in the decade. The pants were straight legged.
Jackets
At the races, men wore tweed suits and bowler hats at the beginning of
the century, unless royalty was expected. In that case, they wore a black
President Taft in a day suit. [Library of Congress]
250
MEN’S FASHIONS
frock coat and silk top hat. When Prince Edward of Wales showed up to
a race wearing a lounge suit, he singlehandedly and swiftly transformed
the appropriate men’s dress for that type of social event. Soon men were
seen wearing navy blue blazers, duck trousers, and boaters, which were all
casual garments, at the races.
As men’s dress relaxed, many more options became acceptable for
everyday dress. White duck trousers worn with a black or blue serge jacket
was seen as acceptable morning dress. The Norfolk jacket was primarily
worn while traveling or in the country.
Shirts
In casual wear, shirts were exposed more than they were in business wear,
in which they were covered by vests. Casual and athletic activities allowed
men to shed their vests. Striped, dotted, and colored shirts were
fashionable.
Pants
Typically, pants were made of wool serge, cotton duck, flannel, and linen.
In the hip and seat area, they had extra room to allow easy movement.
Sweaters
Sweaters were popu lar casual garments in the 1900s. They were available
in lightweight and heavyweight styles, and both pullover and cardigan
styles were fashionable. Although most cardigans were single breasted,
there were some double-breasted styles. Most cardigans had V necks,
and high military collars were fashionable as well. Many cardigans had
pockets at the front hips. A popular pullover style had a high roll neck.
Knitted sleeveless vests were available also. Popular sweater colors
included navy blue, black, oxford gray, olive brown, maroon, and dark
green.
Decorative Details
During the summer, men would turn from suits made from wool to those
made from homespun, serge, light tweeds, and flannels. Grays, blacks,
and blues were the most fashionable choices.
OUTERWEAR
Coats
Chesterfields were a popular overcoat for men. The hem extended to the
knee, and the skirt of the jacket flared out from the waist. The collar was
typicall y adorned with a contrasting fabric. For evening coats, the
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251
contrasting fabric was usually velvet. The sleeves were straight and with-
out cuff s. Slit pockets were placed at the hips.
Other fashionable outer garments included the Inverness coat and
Macintosh. The Inverness coat had a wrist-length cape over the coat to
keep the wearer warm. The Macintosh was the name given to raincoats.
The name comes from Charles Macintosh, who patented a process for
making water proof fabric by coating one side of the cloth with rubber and
affixing another piece of cloth to the tacky side of the rubber. His tech-
nique was so popular that all raincoats, regardless of how they were made
waterproof, were referred to as Macintoshes.
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Swimwear
Men typically wore one-piece, knit jersey trunks. They had round neck-
lines and short sleeves, although some versions were sleeveless. The shorts
of the costume extended to the mid-thigh. This style of suit was either
solid colored or striped. Another style consisted of a pair of knit shorts
with a long knit tunic over the top.
This style was available in round and
V necklines and had either short
sleeves or was sleeveless.
Golf
Whereas some golfers wore knickers,
others wore white striped flannels
with cuffs. Flannel jackets or sack
jackets were worn with a sweater or
madras shirt underneath.
Tennis
Typically, men wore plain white shirts
and white flannel or duck trousers on
the tennis court. They rolled up their
shirt sleeves to their elbows. Some
men wore a combination shirt, which
consisted of a shirt attached to a pair
of underwear. This kept the shirt
tucked in no matter how vigorous the
player. They also wore white canvas
athletic shoes with rubber soles.
Five men, including John D. Rockefeller at the far left, wear
sports attire. [Library of Congress]
252
MEN’S FASHIONS
Other Activewear
Horseback riding, hiking, and hunting required similar outfits. Men wore
mixed tweed suits with knee breeches. When yachting, men would wear a
double-breasted sack coat and a yachting cap. This ensemble was often
mandated by yachting clubs.
UNDERWEAR AND INTIMATE APPAREL
Undergarments
Most of men’s underwear was made of wool or cotton, but some brands
offered silk and linen varieties. Their underwear varied depending on the
season. In the summer, they wore short-legged union suits in lightweight
fabrics. In the winter, they changed to long-legged union suits. Advertise-
ments during this period touted the health value of different brands of
underwear. Companies proclaimed their underwear would reduce contact
with germs and would eliminate perspiration. Breathable fabrics were
prized during the summer months.
Sleepwear
Men usually slept in long nightgowns or pajama suits consisting of a
pajama coat and pants. The coat was a long- or short-sleeve shirt that
usually buttoned up the front.
A motoring costume, c. 1903. [Library of Congress]
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253
Other garments
Some men wore lounging or bathing robes made from terry cloth. These
ankle-length robes had long, full sleeves, a fold-over collar, and a cord
sash.
Smoking jackets were also popular. Men changed into these boxy,
easy-fitting jackets after they returned home from work. They were worn
over a shirt and tie, and typically they had a shawl collar, full sleeves with
cuffs, and patch pockets.
HEADWEAR,HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS
Headwear
Men rarely went anywhere without a hat. In 1901, no self-respecting man
would be without a Panama hat, which had a shallow crown with a crease
pressed into it, a soft brim turned up in the back, and a ribbon band with
a flat bow. There were a wide variety of popular hat styles, and they were
made from materials such as fur, felt, silk, straw, and wool.
The homburg was a felt hat with a soft creased crown and a narrow
stiffened brim that was turned up at the edge. The black silk top hat was
required for formal occasions. It had a high cylindrical crown, a ribbon
band, and a brim that cur led up on the sides. In the summer, most men
wore straw boaters, which helped keep them cool. Boaters had low, hard,
flat-topped crowns, narrow, straight brims, and a ribbon band and bow.
Bowlers were made of felt, had a hard rounded crown, and had a narrow
brim that curved at the sides.
Caps were worn for more active occasions. For boating, men wore a
blue cloth cap with a leather visor. It was trimmed with a gold braid
attached by two gold buttons. A less constructed form of cap in wool
tweed was used for most outdoor activities. In the winter, tweed caps
sometimes had earflaps that were pulled up and fastened on the top of
the crown when they were not in use.
Hairstyles
Typically, hair was kept short and parted in the center or on the side.
Some men wore their hair in a pompadour, lifting the front and top up
high. Other men would brush a thick mass over one eye. Until about
1904, most men were clean shaven because many doctors recommended
the practice for hygienic reasons. From 1904 to WWI, more men began
growing facial hair. Pointed goatees and mustaches were the most com-
mon forms of facial hair.
254
MEN’S FASHIONS
Cosmetics
Men used pomades and hair tonics to style their hair. They also used
aftershaves.
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Footwear
Men’s footwear during the 1900s generally falls into five categories: lace-
up shoes, boots, sport shoes, house slippers, and evening shoes. Leather
lace-up shoes were most commonly used with daywear and business wear.
They would have blunt or pointed toes and stacked heels, and sometimes
they featured toecaps. Brogue edges were a common decoration on this
type of shoe.
Many men favored high-cut sturdy leather boots. These usually fea-
tured button or lacing closures, but some had elasticized side gussets in
place of a closure. Boots had low stacked heels that were similar to leather
lace-up shoes. Some boots had toecaps or contrasting uppers.
The other types of shoes were specialty shoes. Typically, sport shoes
were made of canvas, had low heels, and had texturized rubber soles.
House slippers were made from leather and fabric that was more colorful
than the neutral colors used for everyday shoes. They often had pointed
toes, and stitched or embroidered decorations were common. Evening
shoes were black patent leather with pointed toes, ribbon laces, and low
stacked heels. Cloth spats were worn over the shoes to protect them. They
had a side button closure and a buckle that fastened under the foot.
Legwear
Men’s legwear consisted of neutral-colored stockings held up with elastic
garters that wrapped around the upper calf. The tops of the stockings
were ribbed and sometimes patterned with stripes.
NECKWEAR AND OTHER ACCESSORIES
Neckwear
Men’s ensembles were not complete without neckwear. For the daytime,
a four-in-hand in white or patterned silk was appropriate for most suits.
A four-in-hand was much like the modern necktie, but wider and with a
large knot. Sometimes an elastic extension was included on the band to
ease its restrictive quality. Small bow ties were common and came in a va-
riety of solids and patterns. Formal eveningwear required a black bow tie.
As the decade continued, narrower silk or wool neckties were another
option.
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255
Jewelry
Men’s jewelry tended to be limited. Watches were worn on watch chains,
as wristwatches would not become popular until the next decade. Tiepins
held down neckties, shirt studs took the place of buttons, and cuff links
secured cuffs. Some men wore rings.
Other
Common men’s accessories included gloves and handkerchiefs. Walking
sticks were popular gifts and were often made from luxurious materials.
THE
1910S
FORMAL WEAR
Silhouette
The silhouette continued its transformation from the thick, barrel-chested
silhouette at the turn of the century to a svelte, athletic silhouette of the
1910s. Shoulder padding decreased, the waist became narrower, and the
pants became peg topped.
Jackets and Vest
The dinner jacket and the formal suit were the most popular types of for-
malwear in the 1910s. The dinner jacket, also known as the tuxedo jacket,
was commonly worn for all types of formal occasions. Its fit narrowed,
and the waist was nipped in. The collar was faced with satin. Underneath
the jacket, men wore a low-necked vest that exposed much of the shirt
beneath.
The formal suit had a short-waisted jacket with tails. It retained the
cut of the previous decade. A black or white low-necked vest was worn
beneath the jacket.
Shirts
White shirts were worn with formal suits. Typically, they had stiff fronts
that were exposed through the vest. Sometimes the front of the shirt was
pleated.
Pants
The black pants worn with formal suits followed the fashionable cut of
the decade. They fit loose in the hips and tapered to narrow legs. The
hem ended slightly above the top of the shoe.
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MEN’S FASHIONS
BUSINESS WEAR
Silhouette
The ideal silhouette for businessmen in the 1910s was slim and athletic.
The shoulders and chest tapered into a fitted waist, and the pant legs were
cut narrowly.
Jackets and Vest
As the silhouette narrowed, the shoulders of jackets became less padded.
The sack jacket, also known as the lounge jacket, became the norm. The
jacket became more fitted and ended just below the hip. During WWI,
jackets gradually shortened.
Single-breasted jackets had three buttons, and double-breasted jackets
had six. Most jackets had a notched lapel collar. The narrow cut of the
coat necessitated a vent that was placed at the center back. Most jackets
had three small buttons at the end of each sleeve, slit pockets at the hips,
and a handkerchief tucked into the breast pocket.
Vests generally matched the suit, were high cut, and had a narrow
notched collar or no lapels.
Shirts
Shirts came with either detachable or attached collars. The fashionable
style was a high collar with rounded edges. Some shirts came with
detachable, soft French cuffs that allowed the wearer to reverse them to
hide stains. Generally, shirts were white, striped, or colored.
Pants
Fashionable pants were peg-top pants. They were loose fitting in the hip
and narrow in the legs. Most pants were creased and cuffed. Although
wristwatches were becoming popular, most pants came with a watch
pocket.
Decorative Details
Most business suits were made of wool serge. Dark blue was a very popu-
lar color, but pinstripes, checks, and other dark colors were fashionable as
well. In the summer, lighter colors and lighter fabrics were marketed.
Men who could afford several suits often had summer suits made of light-
weight flannel and linen.
Military Uniforms
During WWI, American soldiers wore an olive drab uniform consisting
of a tunic-style jacket, trousers, shirt, hat, and leggings. The tunic was
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257
close fitting in the torso and flared out from the waist. It had a military-
style band collar and four large patch pockets with flaps. The hat had a
wide brim, and the crown was depressed on four sides of the crown. Dur-
ing battle, they wore helmets with brims and low crowns.
CASUAL WEAR
Silhouette
The silhouette for casual wear was similar to the one for other men’s gar-
ments during this decade. Both the waist and legs were close fitting, cre-
ating a lean, tall silhouette.
Jackets
The most popular jacket for casual wear was the single-breasted sack coat.
Typically, it had a three-button closure, patch pockets, and a notched col-
lar. It was available in a variety of fabrics, including wool serge, flannel,
corduroy, and linen. Military-inspired jackets were also fashionable. These
had high standing collars and were sometimes belted. Norfolk jackets
were popular as well. Fashionable jacket colors included navy blue, tan,
brown tweed, and black.
Shirts
Men usually wore a soft-collared shirt and necktie for casual wear. A new,
more relaxed shirt became popular for active endeavors. This shirt had
Men sport the new ‘‘soft collar’’ shir t. [Library of Congress]
258
MEN’S FASHIONS
elbow-length sleeves and a shawl collar that buttoned close to the neck. It
was not worn with necktie. This style was sometimes called an outing
shirt.
Pants
Men wore either long pants or knee pants for casual activities. Long pants
followed the fashionable silhouette and had a full-cut hip that tapered to
narrow legs. They were worn either creased or uncreased, and they were
usually cuffed. Some styles included buttons to keep the cuffs upturned.
Knee pants, or knickers as they were often called, were cut full in the
hip and narrow along the leg. They ended just below the knee, and the
bottoms were held in place with a drawstring, a button, or a buckle.
They were worn with dark stockings and high shoes. Sturdier fabrics
were widel y used for casual pants. Serge, flannel, twills, and duck were
popular.
Sweaters
Pullover and cardigan sweaters were commonly worn as part of casual and
active wear. Brooks Brothers had popularized an American version of the
Shetland sweater, and roll neck sweaters, which resembled turtleneck
sweaters, were popular for athletic pursuits.
OUTER WEAR
Coats
Burberry trench coats were immensely popular during the 1910s. Thomas
Burberry had developed a wrinkle-resistant, waterproof gabardine and
fashioned it into a trench coat that was used by the military during
WWI. It quickly became popular among consumers. This loose-fitting,
belted coat had a notched convertible collar and straps at the ends of the
sleeves that could be cinched to keep out the elements. The coat was lined
with Burberry’s trademarked tan, red, and black plaid.
There were a variet y of coats available to men during the 1910s. Wool
top coats with raglan sleeves and long camel hair polo coats were popular.
Men also wore coats with capes over the shoulders called Inverness coats.
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Swimwear
Men’s swimwear covered the chest and extended to the mid-calf. One-
piece and two-piece versions were available. Typically, the suits were knitted
from cotton, wool, or a combination of the two. By the 1910s, suits were
The 1910s
259