262 Freedom Riders
voice, he insisted that “we have taken every precaution to protect you,” add-
ing: “I sincerely wish you all a safe journey.” This was not what the Riders had
come to expect from Alabama-bred officials, and several of the Riders thanked
him for humanizing their last moments in Montgomery. After Graham de-
parted, six Guardsmen remained on board, as an array of jeeps, patrol cars,
and police motorcycles prepared to escort the bus northward to the city lim-
its, where a massive convoy of vehicles was waiting. Once the bus reached
the city line, the magnitude of the effort to get the Freedom Riders out of
Alabama without any additional violence became apparent. In addition to
several dozen highway patrol cars, there were two helicopters and three U.S.
Border Patrol planes flying overhead, plus a huge contingent of press cars
jammed with reporters and photographers. As the Riders would soon dis-
cover, nearly a thousand Guardsmen were stationed along the 140-mile route
to the Mississippi border. Less obtrusively, there were also several FBI sur-
veillance units placed at various points along Highways 14 and 80. While
Graham, Mann, and other state officials were in the foreground running the
show, federal officials were in the background monitoring as much of the
operation as they could.
Leaving Montgomery a few minutes before eight, the convoy headed
west toward Selma, the first scheduled stop on the 258-mile trip to Jackson.
During the hour-long, fifty-mile journey to Selma, the Riders chatted ami-
ably with reporters, but when the bus arrived in the town that four years later
would become the site of the movement’s most celebrated voting rights march,
the National Guard colonel in charge of the bus announced that there would
be no rest stops on the journey to Jackson. Motioning to the crowds lining
the streets of Selma, the colonel did not have to explain why. But Lawson
and several of the other Riders made it clear that they did not appreciate the
heavy-handed style of protection being imposed on a Freedom Ride that was
supposed to test the constitutional right to travel freely from place to place.
“This isn’t a Freedom Ride, it’s a military operation,” Bevel yelled out, a
sentiment echoed by Lafayette, who confessed: “I feel like I’m going to war.”
At the same time, they couldn’t help wondering what kind of specific threats
had precipitated such extreme caution.
As the bus passed through Uniontown, thirty miles west of Selma, the
sight of fist-shaking whites on the side of the road was unnerving, but the
first sign of serious trouble came near Demopolis, where three cars of scream-
ing teenagers started weaving through the convoy in an attempt to chase
down the bus. After a brief stop, during which a nauseated Alex Anderson
momentarily left the bus to vomit on the side of the road, the teenagers were
detained long enough to allow the convoy to continue unimpeded to the
state line. The bus did not stop again until it reached the tiny border town of
Scratch Hill, Alabama. A few minutes later, the bus passed through the slightly
larger town of Cuba, prompting several of the Riders to serenade their com-
panions with what one reporter called “impromptu calypso rhythms.” One