
their tasteful products would appeal to the right sort of woman as well as to male
peers and superiors, brings out the constraints which limited and defined a main-
stream set of male consumer values throughout the period in this delicate terri-
tory, where gender identities were both expressed and potentially compromised
though the commercially bounded presentation of self in the urban setting.
112
By the later nineteenth century, and with increasing impact in the twentieth,
more consensually masculine interests were being catered for at the level of
(especially) white-collar workers and the skilled working class, with the growing
interest in ‘hobbies’ generating a market for tools, raw materials, blueprints,
advice manuals and specialised journals.
113
The spread of allotments, greatly
encouraged in wartime, and of council estates encouraged an enthusiasm for gar-
dening which was fed through shopping as well as swapping, and the growth of
‘do-it-yourself ’ activity among domesticated men with shorter working hours
developed alongside interest in tinkering with radios, gramophones and (by the
interwar years) motor vehicles.
114
Women’s consumerism was more resolutely
gendered in terms of shopping as an activity in itself, with the department store
emerging as a particular female haven; but men’s, though differently organised
and often differently labelled, became no less pervasive and important.
115
We must consider age as well as gender. The development of consumer
expenditure on upper-class children, to make them objects of display as well as
to promote their own enjoyment, was an eighteenth-century theme, which
passed down the social scale to generate middle-class demand for elaborate dolls
and mechanical toys by the mid-nineteenth century.
116
Children – or at least
adolescents – as urban consumers on their own account constitute a later phe-
nomenon, but the assumption that the working-class teenage consumer was a
product of novel affluence and high employment levels in the s has been
convincingly challenged. Teenage wages in the interwar years were not uni-
formly ‘tipped up’ to boost the family budget: they might also fund trips to the
cinema and the dance hall, magazines, hobbies and attempts to cultivate the
appearance (including sophisticated smoking mannerisms) of the film stars on
display.
117
Even this was a matter of emphasis rather than complete novelty:
Edwardian lads with wages and few commitments might also be consumers of
entertainment, cigarettes and clothing, and the teenage ‘scuttlers’ of turn-of-the-
century Salford had their own distinctive gang uniform involving clogs, heavy
John K.Walton
112
F. Mort, Cultures of Consumption (London, ), pp. –; M. Hilton, ‘Constructing tobacco:
perspectives on consumer culture in Britain –’ (PhD thesis, University of Lancaster,
); Childs, Labour’s Apprentices, pp. –; Bailey, Music Hall.
113
McKibbin, Ideologies of Class (Oxford, ), ch. .
114
Ibid., pp. – and passim; Constantine, ‘Amateur gardening and popular recreation’; D. Crouch
and C. Ward, The Allotment (London, ).
115
Lancaster, Department Store.
116
J. H. Plumb, ‘The new world of children in the eighteenth century’, P&P, (), –;
Thompson and Yeo, Unknown Mayhew, pp. –; K. D. Brown, The British Toy Business: A
History since (London, ).
117
Fowler, The First Teenagers, chs. –.
Cambridge Histories Online © Cambridge University Press, 2008