Spices and Sugar
672
the scale of fashion and did not fi gure much in the most luxurious recipes. 
Cooks knew that their diners wanted expense and display. 
 The spices imported from the Far East were pepper, cloves, nutmeg, 
mace, cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger. These had been imported since 
Roman times, shipped to Middle Eastern ports and then into the Mediter-
ranean Sea, but the supply dwindled to an expensive trickle during the years 
of barbarian invasions. After  Muslim  Arabs conquered most of the Medi-
terranean, shipping and travel became more dangerous, and spices were 
scarcer and more expensive. Only the richest could afford the few spices 
that still entered Europe. But in 1099, the First  Crusade  set up a king-
dom in Palestine and its surrounding fortress cities, such as Antioch. For 
the next 200 years, knights,  masons,  merchants, and other workers fl owed 
back and forth to support this kingdom. Trade in spices soared. Venice, 
Genoa, and other maritime cities obtained exclusive trade contracts for cer-
tain routes and places, while those places became wealthy by charging fees. 
Alexandria, Egypt, was one of the main hubs of the spice trade. 
 The most popular imported spice of the Middle Ages was pepper, and 
Europe was never entirely without pepper even during the years of most 
privation. Pepper’s use was restricted to the aristocracy, though. It took a 
greater supply and a lowered price for pepper and other spices to become 
part of commoners’ lives. When the spice trade was reestablished follow-
ing the Crusades, spices became more common and were available to some 
well-to-do merchants and craftsmen. In the later Middle Ages, after 1350, 
as pepper became more available to the common man, it lost fashion among 
the rich. Fewer recipes used pepper. By the close of the Middle Ages, pep-
per was viewed as the spice of the poor.   
 Medieval recipes were generously spiced. Sauces for meat included not 
only salt and pepper, but also ginger, cinnamon, cloves, mace, cardamom, 
and saffron, and often all at once. The wealthy, whose households kept 
 records  still in existence today, purchased spices in staggering quantities. 
Their cooks used upward of a pound of assorted spices a day to make their 
stockpots of stews and sauces for the castle’s household. While some meat 
and fi sh were eaten fresh, much of it had been salted, and this saltiness was 
probably the driving force behind recipes that chopped meat fi ne, mixed 
it with other ingredients, and drowned its taste in spices. Fresh meat, too, 
such as venison or pork, was stewed or dipped into sauces seasoned with 
cinnamon and ginger. 
 Many history books say spices were used to cover the taste of spoiled 
meat or fi sh, but this does not hold up in a closer examination. Medieval 
cooks and diners were aware that eating spoiled meat made people sick, 
although their ideas of the mechanisms of food spoiling seem quaint and 
were too heavily focused on the smells and bad air. Spices were probably 
used as preservatives, and spoiled meat could be a problem, but merchants