Peterson A.T., Hewitt V., Vaughan H., Kellogg A.T. The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History, 1900 to the Present. Volume 1: 1900-1949
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1940S ,
WORLD WAR II
FORMALWEAR
Silhouette
The silhouette of formalwear generally followed that of the business suit.
The jacket had a thick torso and wide shoulders, and the trousers had a
somewhat full cut.
Jackets and Vest
Tails were reserved for only the most formal occasions. Usually, men wore
tuxedo jackets for most formal occasions. The jacket either had a rolled
collar covered in silk or a notched collar. Most of these jackets were black,
but some versions were midnight blue. Instead of a vest, men wore a cum-
merbund beneath the jacket. White dinner jackets were worn during the
summer.
Shirts
Shirts with starched fronts and white ties were worn with tail coats. Tuxedo
jackets were worn with soft front shirts and dark ties that matched the jacket.
Pants
Trousers followed daytime lines with full legs and pleating by the waist-
band. A line of braid that matched the color of the pants was added along
the outer seam.
BUSINESS WEAR
Silhouette
Business suits had broad-shouldered jackets that fit loosel y through the
waist and hips after the first years of the decade. Trousers narrowed from
the previous decade but remained somewhat full.
Jackets and Vest
Early in the 1940s, jackets were cut in the English drape style, which was
wide at the shoulder and chest and fell with a slight drape in that area. The
jacket fit close to the waist and came in single- and double-breasted styles.
It was worn with or without a vest that was close fitting in the waist.
Wartime restrictions changed the cut of jackets. The drape at the
chest was reduced, although the shoulders remained broad. The War
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MEN’S FASHIONS
Production Board set the maximum length of jackets and eliminated dou-
ble-breasted styles and vests. The jackets had slit pockets at the hips with
and without flaps and a breast pocket in which a handkerchief was
tucked.
Shirts
Typically men wore soft-collared, button-down shirts with their business
suits. Some men wore striped shirts, and collars became wider. Although
cotton was the most common fabric for shirts, nylon was used again after
the war.
Pants
At the beginning of the decade, men’s trousers followed the silhouette
that had been popular during the 1930s. They were pleated at the waist
and had wide legs, creases, and cuffs. Tweeds and plaids were popular.
The War Production Board set maximum lengths for trouser inseams.
It also limited suits to one pair of pants and eliminated cuffs and pleats.
Although the pants narrowed from the wide-legged silhouette that had
dominated in the 1930s, they continued to be full.
Decorative Details
Business suits were usually made from wool or rayon. Pinstripes, herring-
bone, plaids, and solid-colored suits were popular. Brown, gray, and navy
blue were common suit colors.
Military Uniform
The U.S. Army field jacket remained essentially unchanged from WWI
until the end of the 1930s, when it moved to create a more functional
garment that protected soldiers on the battlefield. The resulting design
was the olive drab cotton field jacket, which was adopted in 1940. The
Navy and Marine Corps soon adopted similarly styled jackets.
Modeled after the windbreaker used in sportswear, the cotton jacket
had a zipper closure with a button flap over it. It was lined with flannel
and had buttons at the notched collar to attach a hood. This jacket was
worn by nearly all Army personnel and became a symbol of the armed
forces during WWII.
The rest of the uniform was made in the olive drab color also. Pants,
shirts, and even caps and the tie were made of the same color. These gar-
ments were made from wool, and soldiers wore components of the uni-
form in both summer and winter. When it was cold, the wool provided
warmth, and, in warmer environments, it provided breathability.
1940s, World War II
281
CASUAL WEAR
Silhouette
The casual wear silhouette followed that of business wear. It was broad
shouldered with some thickness through the waist and leg.
Jackets
Casual jackets were cut along the same lines as business jackets. The
broad shoulders were padded, and they were single breasted and cut loose.
They were worn with contrasting trousers. Often the trousers or the
jacket was patterned, and the other piece was solid colored. More casual
sports coats had patch pockets, oversized collars, or contrasting collars.
Some jackets had half-belts in the back or full belts.
Norfolk jackets continued to be worn, and bush jackets became popu-
lar. These were short-sleeved tan cotton jackets with four large flapped
pockets. They were reminiscent of the jackets worn by African explorers.
Slack suits, which were coordinated shirt and trouser combinations,
were marketed for casual occasions. Shirts had either short or long sleeves
and large, flapped patch pockets at the chest. Some shirts were designed
to be tucked into belted trousers, whereas other ‘‘blazer’’ styles were to be
worn untucked. The shirts often had yokes and shirring at the back for
added comfort. The trousers in these ensembles were full and loose fit-
ting, with pleats, creases, and cuffs.
Later in the decade, jackets became longer and continued to be single
breasted. Sometimes they had larger collars and were belted. Western
‘‘ranch-style’’ details were popular. Many styles had a breast pocket for a
handkerchief.
Shirts
Sports coats were usually worn with white soft-collared shirts. During the
colder months, men often wore pullover sweaters or sweater vests under
their spor ts coats. Cardigans with button or zipper closure were popular
as well. Hawaiian print shirts became popular, and polo shirts were com-
monly worn.
Pants
Casual pants came in a variety of colors and patterns, including plaid,
checked, and striped. They were pleated at the hip and had creases and
cuffs. Walking shorts were worn as casual wear during summer months.
Jeans were worn as well, although they followed a simplified silhouette.
They did not have creases or pleats.
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MEN’S FASHIONS
OUTERWEAR
Coats
The coat styles that dominated the previous decades continued to be pop-
ular during the 1940s. Chesterfields, trench coats, swagger coats, and
coats with raglan sleeves were common. Both double- and single-breasted
styles were available. Sometimes coats were belted, and they typically had
notched collars. Herringbone and plaid were popular patterns.
Coats with a militar y influence became popular. Pea jackets patterned
from the ones American sailors wore were double-breasted dark-colored
wool with a notched collar and large, naval-themed buttons. Battle jack-
ets, also known as Eisenhower jackets, were common as well. They were
waist length and bloused slightly. They were gathered into an attached
belt.
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Swimwear
Men wore bathing trunks to go swimming. These boxer-style shorts gath-
ered into an elastic waistband. They extended to the upper thigh, and
sometimes they had a pocket. Usually, they included built-in support.
Matching trunks and shirt sets were available.
Golf
When playing golf, men wore knit or button-down woven shirts with
sweaters or jackets. They also wore either casual trousers or shorts.
Tennis
Rene Lacoste, a number one-ranked tennis player in the 1920s, developed
a short-sleeve knit tennis shir t with a ribbed collar and long shirt tails to
keep the shirt tucked in. He partnered with a manufacturing company to
produce the shirt in the 1930s. Although he halted business during
WWII, when he resumed after the war, he exported the shirt to the
United S tates, where it became an automatic hit.
Tennis players also wore knit T-shirts and pleated white pants or
shorts. White outfits continued to be a requirement of many tennis clubs.
Before and after games, players wore cable knit pullover sweaters in vest
and long-sleeve styles. Sometimes they also wore a tennis visor or cap.
Skiwear
Snow skiing was becoming a popular sport because soldiers learned cross-
country skiing during the war. New synthetic fibers developed as a result
1940s, World War II
283
of wartime ingenuity provided waterproofing, windproofing, and more
stretch in pants and jackets. Zippers were once again available for civilian
clothing, making pants and jacket closures a better protection from the
elements for skiing and sailing.
UNDERWEAR AND INTIMATE APPAREL
Undergarments
By the 1940s, there was great diversity in men’s undergarments. The one-
piece union suits of earlier decades were worn. They had either long or
short sleeves and legs, and some styles were sleeveless.
For men who did not wear union suits, there were new, modern
options. Servicemen wore T-shirts, and they became common undergar-
ments and found their way into sportswear. Athletic shirts, which were
knitted tanks, were an alternative to T-shirts. Boxer shorts had been
introduced in the 1930s and had earned many converts. In 1935, a fitted,
knit short was patented, called a Jockey short. In 1942, a Y-shaped open-
ing was added to the style.
Sleepwear
By the 1940s, pajamas had replaced nightshirts. Usually, the coat or shirt
of the pajamas had a simple center front-button closure, but some closed
far to the left or had belted tunics.
Other garments
Robes came in a great variety. There were silk robes in the kimono style
and paid flannel robes with cord or fabric belts.
HEADWEAR,HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS
Headwear
The hat styles that had been common in previous decades continued to be
popular. High-crowned, narrow-brimmed hats such as fedoras, derbies,
and homburgs were worn with business suits. They were typically made
from felt, but straw styles were popular in the summer. Soft-crowned hats,
such as sports caps and pork pies, were worn with more casual clothes and
sportswear. These were made from wool or cotton.
Hairstyles
Men wore their hair short, especially during the war. Mustaches went out
of fashion, and clean-shaven G.I.s became the ideal.
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MEN’S FASHIONS
Cosmetics
Men used hair tonics and aftershave lotions.
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Footwear
Oxford-style shoes predominated. They had low, stacked heels and lacing
at the vamp. Typically, they were made from brown, russet, and tan
leather or suede. Some styles had toecaps and topstitching details. White
and two-toned versions were worn during the summer. One version of
oxfords, called sport oxfords, had fabric uppers and lightweight cork soles.
They were designed to be worn with casual wear.
Although not as popular as oxfords, chukkas were worn with casual
clothing. This style of shoe tied high up at the ankle. Generally, they were
made from suede.
G. H. Bass introduced weejuns, or ‘‘penny loafers,’’ in 1936, and they
became a common casual shoe in the 1940s. They were worn with casual
outfits and business suits. They continued to be popular through the end
of the decade.
Sport shoes were worn for any athletic activity and with some casual
outfits. They had canvas uppers and nonskid r ubber soles. Sometimes they
had rubber toecaps to protect the foot and improve the durability of the
shoe.
Galoshes or overshoes were worn to protect leather and canvas shoes.
They closed in the front with either zippers or snaps. During the war,
when there was a shortage of rubber, galoshes were made from synthetic
rubber.
Legwear
Socks were colorful during the 1940s. They came in argyle, chevron, and
diamond patterns. Elastic was added to the tops of socks, so gar ters were
no longer necessary.
NECKWEAR AND OTHER ACCESSORIES
Neckwear
Men wore ties with formal, business, and casual wear. Plaid, striped, and
patterned ties were popular, and they became wider as the decade contin-
ued. They were made from wool, cotton, silk, and rayon and usually fea-
tured brilliant colors. Some men wore neck scarves tucked into open
collars, and knit ties were worn sometimes with sports coats.
1940s, World War II
285
Jewelry
Men did not wear much in the way of jewelry during the 1940s. They
wore watches and rings on a regular basis. For dressier occasions, they
wore tiepins, shirt studs, and cuff links.
Other
As a whole, men wore fewer accessories than they had earlier in the cen-
tury. Belts were a common accessory, as was a handkerchief tucked into
the breast pocket. Gloves and scarves were worn, and umbrellas were car-
ried. Sunglasses became available after an Army pilot requested goggles
that filtered out sunlight. The goggle manufacturer, Bausch and Lomb,
marketed the resulting solution, and Americans began wearing sunglasses
regularly.
REFERENCES
Baker, P. 1992. Fashions of a Decade: The 1940s. New York: Facts on File.
Baudot, F. 1999. Fashion: The Twentieth Century. London: Thames and Hudson,
Limited.
Blum, S. 1981. Ever yday Fashions of the Twenties as Pictured in Sears and Other
Catalogs. New York: Dover Publications.
Blum, S. 1986. Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs. New
York: Dover Publications.
Bordwell, D., and Thompson, K. 2002. Film History: An Introduction. 2nd revised
edition. Columbus, OH: McGraw Hill.
Buxbaum, G., ed. Icons of Fashion: The Twentieth Century. New York: Prestel.
Eyles, A. 1987. That Was Hollywood: The 1930s. London: Batsford.
Kellogg, A. T., Peterson, A. T., Bay, S., and Swindell, N. 2002. In an Influential
Fashion: An Encyclopedia of Nineteenth and Twentieth Century Fashion Design-
ers and Retailers Who Shaped Dress. Westport, CT: Greenwood Press.
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Publishing.
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Hudson.
Mendes, V. D., and De La Haye, A. 1999. 20th Century Fashion. London:
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Olian, J., ed. 1990. Authentic French Fashions of the Twenties: 413 Costume Designs
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New York: Dover Publications.
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Olian, J. 1995. Everyday Fashions 1909–1920: As Pictured in Sears Catalogs. New
York: Dover Publications.
Olian, J., ed. 1998. Victorian and Edwardian Fashions from ‘‘La Mode Illustree.’’
Mineola, NY: Dover Publications.
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Peacock, J. 2000. Fashion Accessories: The Complete 20th Century Sourcebooks with
2000 Full Color Illustrations. London: Thames and Hudson.
Richardson, D. E., ed. 1982. Vanity Fair: Photographs of an Age, 1914–1936. New
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9
Children’s Fashions
OVERVIEW
In the years between 1900 and 1949, children’s lives in the United States
changed dramatically. At the beginning of the period, children were widely
exploited by factories, education beyond grammar school was unusual, and
teenagers were seen as young adults. By the end of the period, child labor
laws had been passed, most children were educated through the high school
level, and a new adolescent market was being exploited by marketers.
In the 1900s, young children were dressed alike. It was common to see
a boy under the age of 6 wearing a dress and sporting long curls. Once they
turned 6, they were dressed like young boys. This long-held custom had
primarily disappeared by the 1920s. By that time, only infants were outfit-
ted in dresses regardless of their sex. Once boys became toddlers, they wore
boys’ clothing. Although they were no longer dressed the same as girls,
young boys continued to have a ‘‘coming of age’’ clothing experience
through the end of this era. They wore knee pants or short pants until they
were 6 or 7, when they were allowed to wear long pants.
At the beginning of the 1900s, teenagers were seen as young adults in
many ways, and they dressed like young adults. By the 1940s, they were
seen as a separate category: not quite adults and not exactly children.
Marketers seized on this new group of teenager trendsetters and innova-
tors. Companies began developing products specifically for teenagers. As
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