Peterson A.T., Hewitt V., Vaughan H., Kellogg A.T. The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History, 1900 to the Present. Volume 1: 1900-1949
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they modified existing garments, like rolling up jeans or wearing bobby
socks, stores began marketing those items and creating reproductions of
teenagers’ homemade trends.
During this era, there was a transition in the functionality of children’s
clothing. Early in the century, children ’s clothing had a lot of adornment and
tended to be tight fitting. By the 1920s, playwear became a staple of a child’ s
wardrobe. Rompers and playsuits allowed children to get messy and be active
without any concerns about ruining their more formal garments. American
society’s emphasis on health and the outdoors continued during the remain-
der of the era and further popularized play clothes and active garments.
There were many innovations in children’s garments that allowed them
to be more comfortable and active. From the youngest toddler to the col-
lege student, there were new details that affected every child’s clothing.
Toddlers had elastic leg openings that eased their movement and snaps
along the inseams of their trousers to speed up diaper changes. New fab-
rics such as rayon and nylon were used to make a variety of c lothing from
coats to swimsuits. Rubber was used to make raincoats, new yarns for
swimsuits, and the soles for athletic shoes. Elastic made stocking garters
more comfortable, and raglan sleeves made arm movements freer.
Between 1900 and 1949, the United States was involved in two wars
and a major economic depression. These events affected the clothing of
all Americans, including children. During the wars, common materials
such as silk and metal were rationed and in scarce supply. Manufacturers
were required to reduce their use of fabrics and certain embellishments, so
clothing became shorter, narrower, and less decorated. Patriotism during
the wars led to the popularity of military styles among children. Military-
style coats, shirts, and hairst yles were popular. During WWII, copies of
military uniforms were available for children.
The Depression limited the purchasing power of most Americans.
Children were often outfitted in hand-me-downs or donations from aid
organizations. Usually, these garments were old-fashioned, outdated
styles. Most families could not afford extensive wardrobes for their chil-
dren, so very formal styles were purchased infrequently and most children
wore casual clothing for nearly all of their activities.
Children’s fashions were affected by popular culture during this period
more than it ever had before. Hollywood had a significant influence on
children’s clothing. Child stars such as Judy Garland, Shirley Temple, and
Deanna Durbin became fashion trendsetters, and they had lines of cloth-
ing. Cowboy stars such as Tom Mix and Roy Rogers popularized cowboy
culture for young boys. Cowboy boots, hats, and motif shirts were popular
among boys. Popular children’s books became inspirations for fashion
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
during the first half of the twentieth century. Bonnets styled after the
ones in Gone with the Wind and dresses inspired by Little Women found
their way to clothing store racks during this period.
At the beginning of the century, children’s clothing was much like it had
been in the previous century. The themes that had been consistent in chi ld-
ren ’s fashions, such as similarity to adult clothing, restrictiveness, and slow
transitions in styles, changed significantly over the course of the next forty-
nine years. Styles changed with increasing frequency, a new yo uthful teenage
market emerged, and children ’s styles deviated clearly from adult styles.
THE
1900S
FORMALWEAR
Infants and Toddlers
Christening gowns were the most formal of infant clothing. Worn during
a christening ceremony, this long white cotton gown was usually finely
embroidered and inset with lace. The gowns would measure anywhere
between thirty-five and fifty inches in length (MacPhail 1999). They were
considered prized possessions to be worn by all of the children in the fam-
ily and would be passed down from generation to generation.
Teen and College
The teen and college styles for both young men and women closely fol-
lowed adult fashions, although teenagers and college-age young people
were more likely to adopt the new clothing trends.
During the Edwardian period, teenage girls and young women dressed
like older women, wearing the tightly corseted fashions with extensive
lace trim and sweeping, trumpet-shaped skirts. Their silhouette differed
slightly from older women, because the monobosom was not as pro-
nounced in their eveningwear.
CASUAL WEAR
Infants and Toddlers
During the 1900s, properly outfitting an infant required many clothes. At
that time, diapers were made of wool or cotton and did not have rubber or
plastic overpants, so every time the baby wet, it soiled most of its clothes.
A typical layette consisted of three or four long cotton nightgowns,
two or three cotton or woolen jackets called matinees, three or four wool
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291
wrap-over vests for warmth, one or two blankets, two or three pairs of knit
booties, and two dozen diapers. Often the nightgowns would have draw-
strings or sashes to accommodate the width of the growing child.
Baby and toddler boys and girls were dressed alike until the 1920s.
Typically, they wore cotton, linen, or silk dresses or jacket and skirt com-
binations. In the 1900s, colors became popular. Before then, infant clothes
were usually white or cream colored. Peach and pink were considered
girls’ colors, and blue and lemon yellow were boys’ colors.
Gingham, chambray, lightweight cotton, and wool were common
materials for toddler dresses. Some were solid colored, but stripes, plaids,
and other patterns were also popular. Most dresses had a ruffle at the yoke
andahighneck.Empire,natural,anddroppedwaistswereallcommon,and
the hemline was either below the knee or mid-calf. Sl eeves were close fitting
or loose and gathered into the cuff.
Children to Preteen
Girls’ Ensembles. Girls wore solid or plaid dresses during the 1900s.
Depending on the season, the dresses were made of wool flannel, wool
cashmere, or cotton lawn. Dresses had high necks that mimicked those in
adult women’s dress. Round or square yokes were accented by wide geo-
metric lapels, berthas, that might be round, scalloped, square, triangular,
or notched. In dresses made of lawn, a ruffle was another form of yoke
embellishment. The yokes were trimmed with tucks, buttons, lace, or em-
broidery. The edges of the bertha were usuall y decorated with braid, rib-
bon, velvet, cord, lace, embroidery, or inset fabric. The bodice was
generally loose to allow easy movement and growth.
A belt, waistband, or sash cinched the dress at the natural waist or
slightly lower. Occasionally, the waistband dipped into a V in the front,
imitating adult dress. Supported by petticoats, the skirt flared out and
ended just below the knee.
Sailor dresses were very popular with girls. These navy blue dresses
usually had pleated skirts and sailor collars, which extended from the
lapels to a square cape in the back. The collar would be trimmed with
white, and a loose necktie was knotted beneath the collar.
Boys’ Ensembles. Once boys emerged from toddlerhood, they began
wearing suits. Typically, suits consisted of a single- or double-breasted
jacket, a waistcoat, and close-fitting, straight knee pants. The knees and
seat of the pants were often double layered to improve the durability. The
pants were secured at the knee with buttons or a buckle.
By the end of the decade, the silhouette of boys’ suits had changed.
Double-breasted jackets became the norm, and they were cut more
loosely. The close-fitting knee pants gave way to the looser knee-length
knickerbockers that gathered at the knee.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
Beneath the suits, boys would wear
shirtwaists. Fancier styles were designed
to be worn without jackets. They featured
wide, cape-like collars and ruffles or em-
broidery. Most shirts were plainer in style
and were made from cotton, linen, or
flannel. Some came with attached collars,
whereas others had detachable ones.
Plaids, stripes, and solids were the most
common patterns. Military-style shirts
were popular during the early part of the
decade. The shirt placket and closures ran
from the edge of the right shoulder down
to the shirt hem.
Like boys’ pants, boys’ shirts often had
features designed for their active lifestyles.
Easily washable material was a feature, as
were double-sewed seams. Some shirts
included a band of buttons along the
waistline to help keep the shirt tucked.
Playsuits were popular for younger
boys. These garments were one-piece
combination shirts and pants. They were
designed for children’s grimier playtime.
Instead of ruining expensive suits and
dresses, parents could put their children in an inexpensive playsuit instead.
Playsuits came in long and knee-length pant styles and were usually
belted.
Teen to College
Girls’ Ensembles. The clothing of teenage and college girls followed the
dominant S-curve silhouette. They wore dresses, suits, and separates that
conformed to the silhouette’s monobosom bodice and trumpet-shaped
skirt. Shirtwaists and bodices were adorned with lace inserts and embroi-
dery. Waistlines were cinched and accented by belts, sashes, and wide
waistbands. Leg-of-mutton sleeves remained popular, although they were
not taken to the extremes as they were during their peak in the 1890s.
This sleeve style consisted of a full puffed sleeve from the shoulder to the
elbow that tapered into a close-fitting sleeve from the elbow to the wrist.
Boys’ Ensembles. Boys’ clothing followed the silhouette of the men’s
clothing during the period. Suits were the norm, although jackets could
be single or double breasted. Regardless of the closure, the jacket was cut
full at the torso giving even young men a barrel-chested appearance.
Boys’ and girls’ clothing in the early 1900s. The girl wears
a sleeveless dress with ruffled yoke; the boy’s hair has curls
customary to the period. [Library of Congress]
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293
Young men frequently wore sack coats. Vests were worn under jackets,
and the shirt was only visible from the top of the vest to the collar. This
was a looser, more square style of jacket. Pants were cut full in the hip
and more closely in the leg.
OUTERWEAR
Children to Preteen
Coats. Coats for young girls were available in long and short styles.
Shorter styles were sometimes referred to as ‘‘automobile jackets.’’ The
short styles would extend to the hip line, whereas longer coats ranged
from below the hip to just below the knee.
Reefer-style coats were popular throughout the decade. This style was
double breasted and fit fairly straight along the body. Long coats that
flared out at the hem were also seen. Coats were not cinched at the waist.
Sleeves came in a variety of styles, including close fitting, full and gath-
ered into the cuff, and raglan.
There were four main types of collars used on girls’ coats during the
1900s. The first is the common coat collar with notched lapels. This type
of collar was usually trimmed with velvet in a contrasting color. The sec-
ond type of collar was referred to as a ‘‘storm’’ collar. This round collar
buttoned high up on the neck and folded over to extend slightly below
the natural neckline. The third type mimicked the bertha collars on girls’
dresses and consisted of a shoulder cape of circular or square shape. It was
usually topped with a storm collar. By the end of the decade, sailor collars
gained in popularit y. In this type of collar, the lapels extended into a
square cape on the back. It included a necktie that was tied loosely below
the collar.
Most coats were made of wool, silk, or cotton and trimmed with vel-
vet, braids, silk cord, or embroidery along the collar, cuffs, and pockets.
Common coat colors included blue, red, brown, and gray.
Boys had a lot of variety in their coats. Short top coats imitated those
of their fathers and were usually worn by boys over the age of 10. Older
boys also had longer styles of coats that were made in adult men’s styles.
Reefer coats were like those worn by girls but without the embellish-
ments. Younger boys also wore cape-style overcoats.
Teen to College
Coats. Coat styles followed the men’s and women’s styles of the time
period.
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR
Children to Preteen
Swimwear. Young children wore a one-piece wool tank suit for swim-
ming. Typicall y, the legs of the suit extended to the mid-thigh. Older
boys wore a similar suit or one that had a long tunic over a pair of mid-
thigh-length shorts. The tunic either had short sleeves or was sleeveless.
Generally, these suits were made of wool, but sometimes they were made
of cotton or a blend of wool and cotton.
Older girls typically wore woven loose-fitting swim dresses with a
knitted underpiece. They often had short sleeves, but some versions were
sleeveless. Usually, these dresses were belted or had distinct waistbands.
Some dresses had collars.
Teen to College
Swimwear. The woven swim dress was the common bathing costume for
teenage and college girls. Usually made from dark-colored cotton or silk,
these dresses had a wool undersuit. They came in styles with and without
sleeves but usually had a waistband or sash. Generally, swim dresses had
V necks, round necklines, sailor collars, or wide collars. Young women
would wear cloth or knitted swimming caps and swimming shoes that tied
around the ankle like ballet pointe slippers.
The knit tunic over shorts was a popular style for teenage and college
men. They came in one- and two-piece versions and were often sleeveless.
This style was made from wool, cotton, or a combination of the two.
Other Activities. Tennis was a popular sport in the first decade of the
century, and players followed tradition and wore white garments. Young
men wore soft-collared white button-down shirts and rolled the sleeves
up to the elbows. They usually wore neckties also. Long, white trousers
made from flannel or duck were worn.
Young women wore a similar outfit. They wore casual white blouses
tucked into full white skirts. Typically, the skirts were shorter than those
worn for other daytime occasions.
HEADWEAR,HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS
Children to Preteen
Headwear. Infants wore bonnets made of cloth, usually trimmed with
lace, ribbons, and embroidery. The bonnet tied beneath the child’s chin.
Tam-o’-shanter-style hats were popular for young girls. These hats
consisted of a band that encircled the head and a flat platter that sat on
top of it. This style of hat was made of either silk, flannel, or velvet. It
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295
could be trimmed with embroidery, braiding, and cords, but it usually had
a pom-pom, tassel, or large button that extended from the center of its
top. A square version that resembles a modern graduation mortar board
was also available.
Typicall y, boys wore caps with visor brims. These were made in velvet,
flannel, and wool. Another boys’ style resembled a sleeping cap. It fit low
on a boy’s head and had a small end that flopped over to the side and was
usually trimmed with a tassel.
Hairstyles. Girls’ hair was either parted in the center and pulled back
or left loose. Hair bows were quite popular. Small ones were placed high
up on each side to pull hair away from the face. A medium or large bow
might be placed high on top of the head or at the back of the head on
top of a chignon as decoration. Larger bows were also used to pull hair
back into a low ponytail.
Younger boys sometimes wore their hair longer and kept thick bangs.
Older boys cut their hair short, parted it in the middle or on the side, and
slicked it down.
Teen to College
Headwear. Teenage and college girls wore women’s hats, including the
broad picture hats that were laden with flowers, ribbons, lace, and feathers.
Teenage and college boys wore men’s hats such as the Panama, straw
boater, derby, and fedora.
Hairstyles. Young women wore their hair in the pompadour hairstyle,
keeping it full and loose around the face and pulling the back in a loose
bun or chignon. They often used a marcel wave to give their hair a natu-
ral-looking wave that lasted up to a week.
Young men either wore their hair short and slicked down or styled it
into a pompadour, in which it was loose and full on the top and often cas-
caded over the eyes.
Cosmetics. Although cosmetics were widely used, few women admitted
to using them, and makeup application was subtle. Powder and pink rouge
were commonly used. Some women tinted their lips and used pencil or
charcoal to darken their eyebrows.
FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR
Children to Preteen
Footwear. Both boys and girls wore high, lace-up leather shoes with short
stacked heels. They were often embellished with a patent leather toecap.
Smaller children of ten wore the button-up variety of high shoe. In addi-
tion, girls wore low shoes with open vamps. The sides of this style of shoe
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
were drawn together with a bow or straps. In summer footwear, there
were canvas oxford styles available. By the end of the decade, low styles,
called oxfords, were becoming more popular.
Legwear. Girls wore stockings. Dark or black ones were worn during
the winter, and white was worn during the summer.
Boys wore dark knee-length socks under their knee pants.
Teen to College
Footwear. Young women’s shoes had two-and-a-half-inch heels and pointed
toes. They either had an open vamp, with a strap across it, or they were
oxford style with a closed vamp.
Young men’s footwear was the same as what was worn by older men.
They wore lace-up leather shoes or boots with low, stacked heels. Athletes
wore spor t shoes made of canvas uppers and rubber soles for traction.
Legwear. Teenage and college girls wore cotton stockings.
Teenage and college boys wore knee-length socks that were held up by
garters that encircled the calf.
ACCESSORIES
Young children often wore detachable collars and cuffs to quickly dress up
their ensembles. This could be very fancy with finely woven lace or hand-
stitched embroidery.
Young girls usually wore aprons over their dresses to keep them clean.
These could be made from delicate cotton lawn, finely embroidered, and
trimmed with ruffles. Utilitarian aprons were made from durable cotton
weave such as gingham and could extend over the entire dress in some cases.
Training corsets were available for young girls to help them adjust to
using more restrictive corsets when they reached adolescence.
Teenage and college girls and boys used the same types and st yles of
accessories that were fashionable for adults.
THE
1910S
FORMALWEAR
Teen to College
Girls’ Ensembles. During the 1910s, teenage and college girls’ clothing
transitioned between two silhouettes. The silhouette at the beginning of
the decade invol ved a high waistline located just beneath the bust and a
slim skirt. By the end of the decade, the fashionable silhouette focused on
The 1910s
297
wide hips enhanced by tiers of overskirts. Loose bodices and waists that
were slightly above the natural waistline were common.
Early 1910s formal dresses typically had a long net tunic over a silk
empire-waist dress with a narrow skirt. Surplice bodices were very fash-
ionable, and the wide sash often separated the bodice from the skirt.
V necks were the most common neckline, and sheer short sleeves were
the norm.
By 1916, the progression to the later silhouette was evident. Silk,
chiffon, and lace were arranged as overskirts and flounces to add width
to the hips of evening dresses. Hemlines gradually rose to the mid-calf
point. Bodices and waistlines were loose-fitting, with square, V, or
round necklines. Typically, formal dresses had short or elbow-length
raglan sleeves.
Boys’ Ensembles. The formalwear worn by teenage and college boys
was the same as adult men. The athletic silhouette of the 1910s was
quickly adopted by young men. The black dinner jacket, or tuxedo jacket,
was frequently worn for all types of formal occasions. It was close fitting
and had a collar and lapels that were faced with satin. Underneath the
jacket, young men wore a low-necked black vest and a collared white
shirt. The dinner jacket was worn with black pants that had narrow legs.
CASUAL WEAR
Children to Preteen
Girls’ Ensembles. Early in the decade, young girls wore dresses that were
similar to ones worn in the previous decade, but slight changes began to
occur. Made from plaid and solid-colored wool or cotton serge, many of
these dresses featured bertha or sailor collars. Generally, the collars were
not as oversized as they had been in the 1900s. Waistlines had dropped
slightly below the natural waistline, but the dresses retained high necks.
The hem extended just below the knee, and the skirts were usually
pleated. Sleeves, which had been puffy and loose, became close fitting.
Buttons, cord, braiding, and embroidery were common embellishments.
The dresses for girls under 7 years old were simplified. The waists had
dropped, and the enormous bertha collars disappeared. Sailor collars con-
tinued to be popular. Aprons were commonly worn over dresses to extend
their life.
In the summer, older gir ls would wear lace-covered white dresses
made from cotton lawn, organdy, or a similarly sheer fabric. Lace, silk rib-
bons, and pleats would embellish the bodice, sleeves, and skirt. These
dresses would have square, V, or round necklines and three-quarter-length
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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS
sleeves. The waistline was placed at the natural waist or at the hip, and
the hem ended just below the knee. The skirt tended to be full and often
had two layers.
By the end of the decade, some girls wore overalls for play or chores.
These consisted of knee-length, loose pants and a blouse or bib-style top.
Typically, they were made from durable, washable cotton fabrics.
Boys’ Ensembles. Young boys wore suits with knee pants. The jackets
were either single or double breasted, and there was greater variety in
jacket style than the previous decade. Belted jackets were popular, as were
blouse-style jackets that gathered at the waist and blouse over the waist-
line. Side plackets were available in straight, blouse-style, and belted jack-
ets. Sailor-style tops continued to be popular, and they were made in
additional colors such as white and gray. Coat lapels and ‘‘button to the
neck’’ were the most common collar styles.
Nearly all suits came with knickerbocker pants that fit loosely and
gathered at the knee. Gray, dark blue, olive brown, brown, tweeds, and
pinstripes were frequently used for boys’ winter suits made from wool
and cotton fabrics. Khaki became a popular summer color, and summer
suits were made from linen and cotton.
Children probably dressed up for the photo, and posed with bicycles and tricycles.
[Library of Congress]
The 1910s
299