Peterson A.T., Hewitt V., Vaughan H., Kellogg A.T. The Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through American History, 1900 to the Present. Volume 1: 1900-1949

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The ‘‘Buster Brown’’ suit was

popularized in the 1910s. This

brown pinstriped suit had a

long, straight double-breasted

jacket with a belt. The jacket

covered most of the knickers.

The outfit was completed with a

bow tie and a straw boater.

Character playsuits became

popular in the 1910s. Although

there were some playsuits for girls,

most playsuits were made for

boys. Popular characters included

cowboys, Indians, policemen, and

soldiers. Sometimes the outfits

would include accessories such as

a headdress for the Indian cos-

tume and a toy pistol and holster

for the cowboy outfit.

Boys under the age of 6 often

wore playsuits made of washable

cotton or linen. The tops were

blouses, tunics, or jackets, and

they often had a belt. The pants

were either knickerbockers or straight knee pants. Sailor collars were espe-

cially popular, but other collar styles, such as mandarin, Plymouth, and

shawl, were available as well.

Unisex Ensembles. Girls and boys under age 7 wore rompers. These

functional garments were made of chambray, gingham, and other washable,

durable fabrics. As one-piece garments, they were combination shirts and

pants with either long or short sleeves and collared or collarless necklines.

They were designed for playtime and were loose fitting with loose belts.

Sweaters were worn by both boys and girls. Under age 7, these gar-

ments looked the same for both sexes. Sweaters were usually hip length

with a button closure that extended down the length of the front. They

often had fold-over collars and belts.

Teen to College

Girls’ Ensembles. Early in the 1910s, the dresses worn by teenage and col-

lege women had narrow silhouettes and high waistlines. The monobosom

of the previous decade was still evident but less emphasized. Typical

The young girl to the right wears a sailor dress popular to the period

of the 1910s and a large hair bow. [Library of Congress]

300

CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

dresses had high necks or round necklines accented by round or lace col-

lars. In general, skirts laid flat over the front of the hips and legs, but they

had fullness in the back. Three-quarter-length sleeves and long close-

fitting sleeves with cuffs were fashionable. Decoration tended to be more

subdued than women’s dresses during the period. Lace collars, narrow

neckties, and button trims were popular.

By the middle of the decade, the waistline had loosened and been low-

ered. Necklines became slightly more open as turned-over collars and sailor

collars became more popular. Overskirts became typical on most dresses and

added width in the hip areas. Young women also wore blouses with wide-

hipped skirts. For active endeavors, they usually wore a loose middy blouse

with a narrow silhouetted skirt that had hidden pleating for easy movement.

In the summer, young women would wear white lace dresses made

from lawn or voile. These followed the popular silhouette and had skir ts

with flounces, ruffles, and layers of lace overskirts. These dresses had V,

square, or round necklines or collars accented with lace.

By the end of the decade, the loose, wide-hipped silhouette became

more exaggerated. Hems shortened to the mid-calf level. Decoration

became more minimal. Textured and patterned fabrics, pleating, rows of

buttons, and contrasting fabric insets were common embellishments.

Sweaters became popular for teenage and college girls. Usually, they

wore long hip-length cardigans, but pullover styles became more prevalent

as the 1910s wore on. Sweaters had a variety of collar types, including

shawl, fold-over, and high necks. Oftentimes, sweaters had patch pockets

and a loose belt.

Young women wore overalls for active chores. They consisted of full

pants that gathered into a cuff at the ankle and a blouse or bib. Blouse

styles were either short or long sleeved. Bib styles were worn with a

blouse underneath.

Boys’ Ensembles. During their early teen years, usually to age 14 or

15, boys dressed like younger boys. They wore knickbocker suits with

belted jackets that were either single or double breasted. The jackets

were looser and longer than they had been in the previous decade. To

accompany the suits, they wore shirts and either bow or slender four-in-

hand ties.

Older teen boys dressed in styles worn by men. They wore form-

fitting single-breasted jackets that extended just below the hip with

single-breasted, five-button waistcoats without collars. These suits also

included narrow trousers that extended to the bottom of the ankle. They

were made from wool or cotton in a variety of weaves, including serge,

herringbone, and tweed.

The 1910s

301

When doing manual labor, young men would of ten wear overalls.

They were full fit in the hip and leg. Made from blue denim, they often

had extra layers at the knee for durability. The bib of the overalls was sus-

pended by two shoulder straps that buckled to the bib. Typical overalls

had pockets on the bib and at the hips.

Teenage boys could join the Boy Scouts for which they would need a

uniform. The complete uniform included a single-breasted military-style

jacket, long breeches that were cut full in the hip and thigh and tight in

the calf, and a hat that had a crown that was creased on four sides and

had a wide, stiff brim.

OUTERWEAR

Children to Preteen

Coats. The coats of girls under age 7 were generally cut full and extended

to just below the knee. Double-breasted styles were popular, and single-

breasted coats often offset the placket to the left side. Shawl and sailor

collars were common. Spring coats were often made of cotton poplin, and

winter coats were commonly made of wool serge. Embroidery and lace

often decorated the lapels and cuffs.

A dropped waist was fashionable in older girls’ coats by the beginning

of WWI. The silhouette was boxy, and raglan or kimono sleeves were typ-

ical. The waist was often accented by a belt or trim, and the hem

extended down to the mid-calf. Most winter coats were made of wool,

but they were being finished to resemble more expensive animal materials

such as pony or baby lamb. During the war, military-inspired coats

became popular.

Raincoats were made from waterproof fabric and fit loosely over cloth-

ing. The hem extended to a few inches above the ground. The coat could

be either single or double breasted.

Boys’ coats were either single or double breasted and had a jacket

lapel-style collar. The coat length went slightly past the knee. Dark gray,

olive green, brown, and navy blue were all common colors for boys’ coats.

Teen to College

Teenage girls wore coats that followed adult women’s fashions. They were

mid-calf to ankle length and cut full. Single-breasted coats often had low

hip-height button closures and lap-over fronts, which was a style that

drew the front of the coat across the body much like a double-breasted

coat without the extra row of buttons. Wide, embellished cuffs were typi-

cal, and collars came in a variety of styles, including notched, shawl, and

302

CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

square collars. Typically, winter coats were made from heavyweight wool

or fur, and spring coats were made from linen, cotton, or silk.

During the war, the military influence was seen in young women’s

coats. Double-breasted styles became more popular, as did large collars.

Belted waistlines became more common in coats, and the waist moved up

to the natural waistline. The silhouette became fuller to accommodate the

wide-hipped skirts that were especially fashionable among young women.

Rubberized wool or cotton was used to make raincoats for teenage

girls and young women. The coats were cut long and full and often had a

turned-over collar that extended high up on the neck. The hem usually

extended to the ankle to protect the undergarments from the rain.

Teenage and college boys popularized the swagger-style coat, which

was usually made of cheviot and had a wide, full back and raglan sleeves.

Trench coats, which were popularized during the war, became fashionable

for young men.

SWIMWEAR AND SPORTSWEAR

Children to Preteen

Swimwear. Boys and girls under age 6 usually wore a one-piece knitted

suit. Made from wool, cotton, or a blend of the two, this type of swimsuit

was had a sleeveless tank combined with shorts that ended at the mid-

thigh. The neckline was V or round.

Older boys’ suits mimicked those of adult men. Typically, they were

one-piece suits comprising a long tunic over mid-thigh-length shorts.

They were sleeveless and could have round or V necks. Knit from wool,

cotton, or a blend, they usually came in dark colors with light-colored

bands along the sleeves, neck, and at the bottom of the tunic.

Older girls often wore swim dresses made from woven fabric with

knitted underpieces. Swim dresses fit like a loose, knee-length dress with

a waistband or belt. These dresses were sleeveless or had short sleeves that

were shorter at the shoulder than under the arm. Sometimes, these swim

dresses had collars. Some versions pulled over the head, whereas others

buttoned up the front.

Teen to College

Swimwear. Teenage and college girls wore the same types of swimsuits as

adult women. One of the predominant styles was a one-piece jersey knit

swim dress. This sleeveless garment fit closely in the bodice and had a

narrow mid-thigh-length skirt. This style was available in V neck, round

neck and sailor collar versions. Sometimes this style was loosely belted.

The 1910s

303

Another style was a cotton weave mid-thigh-length dress over a knit

underpiece. Typically, it had a waistband or sash. This type of swim dress

either buttoned up the front or slid over the head. V necks, round necks,

sailor collars, and wide collars were typical. Young women would wear

cloth or knitted swimming caps and swimming shoes that tied around the

ankle like ballet pointe slippers.

Young men wore the same tunic-style swimsuits as adult men. There

were one- and two-piece versions made from knit cotton, wool, or a com-

bination of the two. The sleeveless tunic had either a V or round neckline

and ended at the hip. Short, mid-thigh-length shorts were worn under-

neath the tunic.

Other Activities. Baseball was an immensely popular sport in the

1910s, and high school and college teams were prevalent during this pe-

riod. Uniforms were often made from homespun, a durable, coarsely wo-

ven fabric that was lightweight enough for summer play. Uniform shirts

were cut loose and tucked into the pants. Typically, they had a wide collar.

The shirts were either pulled over the head and laced closed or buttoned

up the front. They came in a variety of sleeve styles, including full-length

sleeves with cuffs, elbow-length sleeves, and detachable sleeves.

Pants were cut very full at the hip and knees and came in padded and

unpadded varieties. The pants ended just below the knee and were usually

closed with drawstrings or elastic. Young men wore heavyweight wool

stockings that extended to the knee.

Various hat styles were worn, and they were usually associated with

the major league teams that wore the styles. One style had a cylindrical

crown that was flat on top and a visor brim. This style would be solid col-

ored or feature horizontal bands of color. In another style, the crown was

made from six pieces. Sometimes the six-piece style would have vent holes

and a cloth-covered button at the top of the crown where the pieces met.

When playing tennis, young men wore long white pants made from

flannel or duck. They rolled up the sleeves of their white shirts and wore

neckties. Young women wore loose-fitting untucked middy blouses over

simple mid-calf-length skirts. Frequently, they wore headbands or narrow

scarves to keep their hair out of their face. Both men and women wore

low canvas sports shoes with rubber soles.

HEADWEAR,HAIRSTYLES, AND COSMETICS

Children to Preteen

Headwear. The hats for young girls had soft crowns and narrow brims

that were either upturned to various degrees or angled down. Hats were

304

CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

usually made from cloth, straw, or felt and trimmed with artificial flowers,

ribbons, lace, and ruffles.

Young boys wore a variety of hats and caps, including straw boaters,

sailor hats, caps with visors, caps that extended over the ears, and tam-o’-

shanters. Another popular style was the tyrolean hat, which had a high

soft crown, a narrow brim that was upturned on one side, and a few small

feathers tucked into the hat band.

Hairstyles. Young girls began to crop their hair into short bobs often

with bangs. Some young girls kept their hair long, and older girls usually

had long hair that was parted in the middle or on the side and pulled

back away from the face or pulled up into a low bun. Oversize, stiffened

bows were popular hair accessories. Young girls wore them on the oppo-

site side of their part or at the back of the head.

Younger boys often wore the pageboy style, curled under at the mid-

ear, and had thick bangs. Older boys wore their hair short, especially on

the sides and in the back. The sides were styled away from the face, and

the top was often slicked down.

Teen to College

Headwear. The hats worn by teenage and college women were like those

worn by adult women. Early in the decade, hats had wide brims and the

crowns were adorned with a profusion of feathers, fabric flowers, ribbons,

and scarves. As the decade progressed, brims narrowed and the crowns

increased in height. By the end of the decade, the crowns came down in

height, and decoration became more minimal.

Teenage and college men wore the prevailing adult styles. Straw boat-

ers with petersham ribbon hatbands were especially popular. Young men

also wore caps made from a variety of fabrics and leather.

Hairstyles. Teenage and college women wore their hair in styles that

were soft and wavy. Either parted in the middle or on the side, the hair

was often swept across the forehead. Both low and high buns were popular.

Tendrils of curls or waves were arranged over the ears. The marcel wave

was popular. It created a natural-feeling wave that could last up to a week.

For young men, the prevailing style was short, especially around the

ears and back. The hair at the crown of the head was either slicked back

or parted and slicked down. The hair ’s natural wave was emphasized by

the shine left by pomade.

Cosmetics. Cosmetics were used, but they were subtle and not widely

admitted. Young women used pencils to darken their eyebrows. Powder

compacts became available. They usually held both powder and rouge in

peach and apricot colors. Some women used lip cosmetics.

The 1910s

305

FOOTWEAR AND LEGWEAR

Children to Preteen

Footwear. Infant and toddler children wore high-topped leather shoes

with button or lacing closures. Decorative or contrasting color uppers

were common. These shoes with either heelless or had a very short heel.

Girls wore low-cut leather shoes with a short, wide heel. One or more

straps secured the shoe to the foot. Oxfords, a style of shoe that had a

covered vamp secured with buttons or lace, were popular also. Open vamp

shoes with an ankle strap were also available.

Legwear. Young girls wore dark stockings during the winter and

lighter ones during the summer. Young boys wore dark knee-length socks

beneath their knickerbocker pants.

Teen to College

Footwear. Teenage and college women wore high and low styles of shoes.

Both pointed- and blunt-toed shoes were typical. High shoes either laced

up or had button closures. L ow shoes were available in oxford or open

vamp styles. Early in the decade, open vamp styles had straps to secure

the shoe to the foot. By the end of the decade, many of the open vamp

styles did not have straps.

Young men wore high and low styles of shoes as well. Both styles had

button or lace closures. Dress shoes worn for formal or business occasions

often had decorated toecaps. A variety of high and low canvas shoes were

worn during the summer and for athletic activities.

Legwear. Young women wore dark cotton or wool stockings during

the day and light-colored silk stockings for formal occasions. Rayon

stockings had become available as an alternative to silk.

Young men wore cotton, wool, or silk knee-length socks that were

held up by garters worn around the calf.

ACCESSORIES

Floppy bow ties and smaller bow ties were commonly worn with young

boys’ suits. Teenage and college boys wore four-in-hand ties in plaids and

other patterns. They also wore bow ties.

In the winter months, preteen and teenage girls favored fur sets con-

sisting of a muff and collar or wrap. Both imitation and real fur were pop-

ular. The muffs tended to be large and round. A common wrap consisted

of a small animal wrapped around the neck and secured to the body of

the animal with a clasp at the animal’s mouth. Muffs made from velvet or

corduroy were also popular.

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CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

Teenage and college boys wore suspenders that buttoned into their

trousers. Leather belts with engraved buckles were also worn.

1920S ,

THE JAZZ AGE

FORMALWEAR

Infants and Toddlers

Formalwear for such a young age was relatively unused, except for special

occasions such as christenings. Christening gowns for both boys and girls

were ornate and included frills, embroidery, and fine lace. Insertions and

edgings were frequently made with baby Irish lace or embroidery executed

on net bands.

Toddler-aged girls typically wore loose tunic dresses with a pair of

matching panties, commonly known as a ‘‘bloomer dress.’’ The bloomers

were just barely visible below the skirt hems. These and other types of

dresses were made of sheer and soft materials such as crepe and georgette.

Initially, these dresses were trimmed with decorative elements, including

embroidery, smocking rosettes, and all manner of ribbon decoration, but

as the twenties progressed, simplicity became the norm. Trim was used

sparsely, focusing on ‘‘delicate patterns and fine workmanship’’ (New York

Times 1928). All-white gowns were popular in the late twenties, especially

in dimity and white muslin.

Children to Preteen

Girls’ Ensembles. Couture designers were particularly interested in design-

ing formalwear for young and preteen girls. Most well-known of the cou-

ture children’s designers was Jeanne Lanvin, who first began designing for

her young daughter. She became well known for her ‘‘Mother and Daugh-

ter’’ dresses (Laubner 1996). Other designers, such as Paquin, Chanel, and

Vionnet, also designed formal attire for young ladies.

Formalwear in general was worn by young girls and teens for special

occasions, such as first communion, holiday parties, and school dances.

First communion dresses were essentially child-sized versions of a wed-

ding dress, including a floral headpiece with a veil. These dresses featured

a great many frills and flounces. The twenties also saw a trend for white

or pale-colored chemise dresses of muslin, handkerchief linen, or dimity

decorated with hand needlework. These were worn by girls through age

14 and were slipped on over the head.

1920s, The Jazz Age

307

For other special occasions, such as Christmas and holiday parties,

young gir ls often wore miniature versions of what their mothers wore to

the parties, with a complementary floral headband. A replica of the young

girls’ dress was also often made for her doll to wear at the party (Wilson

1925). Dances were popular for school-age girls, and their first was con-

sidered a very special occasion. Preteen and slightly younger girls’ dresses

of the 1920s were designed with short puffed sleeves and longer skirts.

Generally, formalwear offered a variety of st yles based on adult silhou-

ettes, especially the robe-de-style or long-skirted ‘‘period costume’’ (New

York Times, December 7, 1924). Deep cape collars and bateau necklines

were often seen on these formal gowns. Box and kilt pleats were used on

dresses that fell just above, below, or at the knee. Other skirt details

included flounced skirts and decorative pockets.

Girls’ formalwear was made of such extravagant materials as velvet,

satin, taffeta, crepe, tulle, and chiffon. Most advice columns recom-

mended that a child’s wardrobe have at least one black velvet dress for

special occasions. Trimmings focused on ribbon and embroidery. The

most popular ribbons were moire, grosgrain, or in bunches tied into floral

shapes. Embroidery in metallic threads such as gold and silver were

trendy, especially in chain stitch on pockets worn over velvet. Crewel em-

broidery was popular over white for holidays. Other decorative details

included nosegays of flowers, ruffles, and smocking or shirring.

Boys’ Ensembles. Boys’ formalwear followed adult styles more closely

than did girls’. The early twenties saw the continued interest in the Nor-

folk suit that had been popular in the teens. Younger boys continued to

wear shorts or knickers with a belted jacket. As the decade progressed,

the belt began to disappear. Older boys wore full-length pants with their

suit coats for formal occasions.

Teen to College

Girls’ Ensembles. Formalwear for teen and college-aged girls in the 1920s

closely resembled both adult and juvenile styles. Youthful-looking fashions

were popular for adults during this time, and so they were for those girls

making their debuts. Ribbon decoration and trim accessorized shorter

dresses worn to dances and special-occasion parties.

Boys’ Ensembles. For teen and college-aged boys of the upper classes, prep

school, naval, or military uniforms were favored in formal situations such as

dances and debuts. Those not in uniform wore suits resembling men ’s wear.

CASUAL WEAR

Infant to Toddlers

Long flowing dresses, generally eighteen inches in length, were worn by both

boys and girls for the first month or two. Up through the toddler age, both

308

CHILDREN’S FASHIONS

boys and girls wore short

smock-style dresses with match-

ing, bloomer-style undergar-

ments. Differentiation between

clothing for boys and girls

increased from the time babies

couldcrawlandwasgenerally

confined to the length of the

skirt and style of the sleeve, col-

lar, and trimming.

Dresses for infants and

babies varied during the twen-

ties. One option was a long

white dress of cotton lawn or

nainsook, heavily decorated

and worn with a matching

bonnet and cape. This was

available in sleeveless and

long-sleeved forms. Typically,

an extra petticoat was worn

under the dress for added

warmth and modesty (when

the overdress was especially

sheer). These petticoats were

made of flannel cotton/wool/silk mixture or white muslin.

Babies of crawling age were switched from dresses to rompers to

allow greater movement for the legs. Another alternative was a three-

piece, hand-knitted ensemble of a long-sleeved, double-breasted shirt,

leggings, and a jersey. It was also recommended in newspapers and

magazines that infants wear an abdominal band under their clothes to

‘‘protect the abdomen and support the abdominal walls’’ (‘‘The Family

Page’’ 1924) until the navel was dry. These were made of knitted silk or

wool flannel.

Infants’ clothing in the 1920s was typically decorated with ‘‘bows, rib-

bon rosettes, embroidery, pin tucks, shirring, and inserts of lace.’’ French

embroidery, lace edging, elaborate hem stitching, smocking, and other

fine needlework were popular as well. When not made of lawn or nain-

sook, white dresses were made of old-fashioned dimity with checks and

hairlines or plain muslin, handkerchief linen, batiste, and ninon.

Children to Preteen

Girls’ Ensembles. For younger girls, simplicity was preferred, and many

clothes replicated versions of older children’s and adult styles. School

Boys playing sandlot baseball show some very casual clothes of the pe-

riod. [Library of Congress]

1920s, The Jazz Age

309