Rough Guide. Venice Directions

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Contents

Ideas

Ca’ d’Oro

Once the most

extravagant house on

the Canal Grande, the

Ca’ d’Oro today is

home to an engagingly

miscellaneous art

collection.

 P.110 

CANNAREGIO 

Ca’ Rezzonico

Devoted to the visual

and applied arts of the

eighteenth century, the

Ca’ Rezzonico contains

several wonderful

paintings and some

frankly bizarre furniture.

 P.85 

DORSODURO 

Museo Correr

Now joined to the

Libreria Sansoviniana

and the archeological

museum, the Correr is a

museum of Venetian

history with an excellent

art gallery upstairs.

 P.59  SAN MARCO:

THE PIAZZA

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An enduring taste

for colourful surface

decoration and

intricate stone-

carving is in

evidence in Venice

right to the end of

the fifteenth century,

long after the

rigorous classical

precepts of

Renaissance

architecture had

gained currency

elsewhere in Italy.

By the end of the

following century,

however, the more

severe style of the

Padua-born architect

Andrea Palladio – whose

buildings have become an

intrinsic part of the image

of Venice – had become

the model for church

design throughout Europe.

Renaissance architecture

Palazzo Grimani

It took nearly twenty years to build the

Palazzo Grimani, the most intimidating

palace on the Canal Grande.

 P.135  THE CANAL GRANDE 

The Redentore

Overlooking the city from the centre of

the Giudecca waterfront, the Redentore is

the greatest of Palladio’s Venetian

churches.

 P.150  SOUTHERN ISLANDS 

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San Salvador

Outside it doesn’t look terribly impressive,

but the interior of San Salvador is an impos-

ing example of Renaissance orderliness.

 P.64  SAN MARCO:

NORTH OF THE PIAZZA

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San Michele in Isola

little church was one of the first

Renaissance buildings in Venice.

 P.140  THE NORTHERN ISLANDS 

The Procuratie Vecchie

The former offices of the administrators of

the Basilica di San Marco fill one whole side

of the Piazza, contributing to a magnificent

architectural set-piece.

 P.58  SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA 

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The Libreria Sansoviniana

and the Zecca

Standing side by side opposite the

Palazzo Ducale, the city library and mint

were both designed by Jacopo

Sansovino, the Republic’s principal

architect in the early sixteenth century.

 P.61  SAN MARCO: THE PIAZZA 

The eighteenth

century was the

period of Venice’s

terminal decline as

a political and

economic force –

with the coming of

Napoleon, the

Republic was dead.

Yet the visual arts

underwent a

remarkable

resurgence at this

time, with painters

such as Tiepolo

(father and son),

Canaletto and the

Guardi brothers at the

forefront. First stop for a

survey of eighteenth-

century art is the

Accademia, then the Ca’

Rezzonico. After those,

check out some of the

following.

Eighteenth-century art

Santa Maria della Fava

The two Giambattistas – Tiepolo and

Piazzetta – can be seen together in the

modest church of Santa Maria della Fava.

 P.119  CENTRAL CASTELLO 

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Palazzo Querini-Stampalia

The gallery’s charmingly clumsy paintings by

Gabriel Bella provide a fascinating chronicle

of daily life in eighteenth-century Venice.

 P.119  CENTRAL CASTELLO 

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Angelo Raffaele

The organ loft of Angelo Raffaele is

decorated with an enchanting sequence

of pictures depicting scenes from the

life of St Tobias.

 P.83  DORSODURO 

The Gesuati

As well as a superb ceiling by

Giambattista Tiepolo, the Gesuati has

altarpieces by two other giants of

eighteenth-century painting,

Giambattista Piazzetta and Sebastiano

Ricci.

 P.81  DORSODURO 

Palazzo Labia

Giambattista Tiepolo was also the

creator of some seductive secular paint-

ings, a superb example being his work

in the ballroom of the Palazzo Labia.

 P.106  CANNAREGIO 

Venice is a small

city, with a

population of less

than 70,000 in the

historic centre, so it

should be no

surprise to find that

it doesn’t have

shopping streets to

compare with those

of Milan, Florence or

Rome. But many of

the big Italian

fashion labels have

outlets in the

Mercerie and to the west

of the Piazza, and there

are several places where

you can buy something

uniquely Venetian – and

the Rialto remains one of

Europe’s most characterful

marketplaces.

Shops and markets

Lace

Like Murano in the northern lagoon,

Burano has its own specialist handicraft –

exquisite lacework.

 P.143  THE NORTHERN ISLANDS 

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Paper

Decorative paper is another Venetian

speciality, sold through various small

outlets, such as Legatoria Piazzesi.

 P.73  SAN MARCO:

WEST OF THE PIAZZA

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Masks

Carnival masks are made year-round in the

city’s numerous workshops, and their

handiwork is amazingly inventive –

MondoNovo is one of the very best.

 P.86  DORSODURO 

Glass

No trip to Venice would be complete without

a visit to the furnaces and shops of Murano.

 P.141  THE NORTHERN ISLANDS 

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The Rialto

Once the most celebrated

market in Europe, the

Rialto is nowadays a

more humble but still

thriving operation,

offering a fabulous array

of fresh food – plus

thousands of souvenir T-

shirts.

 P.89  SAN POLO &

SANTA CROCE



The Mercerie

Running from the Piazza

to within a few metres of

the Rialto Bridge, the

Mercerie are the busiest

shopping streets in

Venice.

 P.63  SAN MARCO:

NORTH OF THE PIAZZA

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Often devastated by

plague and always

prey to a host of

swamp-bound

diseases, Venice

was inextricably

linked with the idea

of death long before

Thomas Mann

welded the two

words together. The

cemetery island of

San Michele and the

churches of Santi Giovanni

e Paolo and the Frari are

essential sights for tomb

connoisseurs, and

elsewhere in the city

there’s plenty to interest

the morbidly minded.

Death in Venice

The Lido

The beach and the grand hotels of the

Lido provided the setting for Thomas

Mann’s great novella

Death in Venice

and

Visconti’s film of the book.

 P.151  THE SOUTHERN ISLANDS 

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Campo San Polo

Bullfights used to be a regular event on

Campo San Polo, which also saw the

murder of a member of Florence’s mighty

Medici clan.

 P.95  SAN POLO & SANTA CROCE 

Palazzo

Vendramin-

Calergi

Richard Wagner died

in the Palazzo

Vendramin-Calergi in

February 1883; the

building is now home

to Venice’s casino.

 P.131  THE

CANAL GRANDE



San Giobbe

The church devoted to the

long-suffering Job is home

to one of the city’s

weirdest tombs.

 P.107  CANNAREGIO 

Campo Novo

The stage-like Campo

Novo, close to Santo

Stefano church, is the lid of

a vast pit for plague

victims.

 P.73  SAN MARCO:

WEST OF THE PIAZZA

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From Jacopo

Bellini and his sons

(Giovanni and

Gentile), through

Giorgione and

Carpaccio, to the

mighty triumvirate

of Titian, Paolo

Veronese and

Tintoretto, Venice

nurtured some of

the titanic figures of

Renaissance art. To

see some of the

best of that era’s

paintings you should

first visit the Accademia

and Correr museums, the

Palazzo Ducale and the

Frari, then the scuole of

San Rocco and San Giorgio

degli Schiavoni. You’re still

far from finished, though,

because many of Venice’s

churches retain the

paintings they

commissioned centuries

ago.

Renaissance painting

San Sebastiano

The parish church of Paolo Veronese is a

treasure-house of pictures by the artist,

begun before he had turned thirty.

 P.82  DORSODURO 

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Madonna dell’Orto

Jacopo Tintoretto worshipped here, is

buried here, and provided the church with

a trio of mighty pictures.

 P.109  CANNAREGIO 