
14.1 
Description of Wave Propagation 
437 
x 2 
_ 
1  2L 2 
(a) q' (x)-~---L e 
~','I \', L2<L I 
/1i 
/l  '~~L 
= 
L 1 
Irlk 12 
(b) Irlk 12 = e "L2k2 
... 
L1  ~ 
kN 
Figure  14.6 
(a)  A  Gaussian  disturbance  imposed  initially  to  the  free  surface.  The  length 
L  characterizes  the width  of  the  disturbance.  (b)  The  power  spectrum  of the  disturbance,  as  a 
function  of zonal  wavenumber  k.  As L  increases,  variance  becomes  concentrated  at  small  k  in 
a  red 
spectrum,  which  excites  waves  in  the  longwave  limit.  As  L  decreases,  variance  becomes 
distributed  widely  over  k,  approaching  a 
white 
spectrum  with  most  of  the  variance  at  large  k, 
which excites waves in the shortwave  limit. 
(Fig.  14.6b),  the  demonstration  of which  is  left  as  an  exercise.  The  excited 
wave  field  is  then  described  by  (14.11.1),  with  individual  components  subject 
to the  dispersion  relation  (14.18). 
If the scale  of the imposed  disturbance  is  sufficiently long (e.g., L  > >  H), 
the  power  spectrum  of  r/'  (Fig.  14.6b)  is  very 
red: 
Variance  is  concentrated 
at  small 
IklH, 
so the  excit.ed wave field  is comprised  of shallow water waves. 
Far from the  impulse, where waves  can be  treated  as planar,  the  disturbance 
(Fig.  14.7a)  then  translates  outward  jointly  with  its  envelope  at  a  uniform 
speed  c  =  c~  and  retains  its  initial  form.  Therefore,  wave  activity  (shaded) 
remains confined to the same range of x  as initially. 
In the  shortwave  limit,  the  phase  speed  (14.21)  depends  on 
Ikl. 
Individual 
components (k, l) then propagate with different phase speeds, so a disturbance 
comprised of deep water waves cannot  retain  its initial shape.  The  difference 
in phase speed between components with small and large 
Ikl 
leads to a  group 
unraveling with time. Such waves are said to be 
dispersive 
because a disturbance 
that is initially compact is eventually smeared over a wider domain. The group 
speed for deep water waves follows from  (14.21)  as 
cg-~  Ikl 
c 
--  ~.  (14.26) 
Thus,  a  group  of deep  water  waves  propagates  at  exactly  half  their  median 
phase  speed,  both c  and 
cg 
being functions  of 
Ikl. 
The  behavior  predicted  by  (14.26)  is  readily  observed  with  the  toss  of  a 
pebble  into  a  pond  and  is  recovered  from  (14.25)  if the  horizontal  scale  of 
the  disturbance  is sufficiently  short  (e.g.,  L  < <  H).  The  power  spectrum  of