
Environmental Encyclopedia 3
Tsunamis
Tsunamis
Tsunamis are large seismic sea waves that can cause major
destruction in coastal regions. A tsunami (Japanese for “wave
in bay") is caused by underwater seismic activity, such as an
earthquake
.
While tsunamis are commonly called “tidal waves,”
this is an erroneous term; these potentially catastrophic waves
have nothing to do with the tides. Tides are the up and
down movements of the sea surface at the shore, caused by
the gravitational attraction of the moon and sun on our
marine waters. Tsunamis are caused by the movements of
Earth’s crustal plates. Tides rarely cause major damage unless
they are associated with a storm, while tsunamis can cause
major loss of life and property.
It has been known for several hundred years that tsuna-
mis are caused by seismic movements of the ocean floor.
This occurs most commonly during submarine earthquakes,
underwater landslides, and perhaps volcanoes, all of which
release large amounts of energy. The sudden movement of
the earth’s crust caused by an underwater earthquake, for
example, displaces or moves the water above it. This causes
a high-energy wave to form, which is passed rapidly through
the water.
Tsunamis are very long waves, with a period (the time
for one complete wave to pass a fixed point) ranging from
six to 60 minutes. These waves typically travel 450 mi/h
(200 m/s or 720 km/h). Therefore, an earthquake in the
Gulf of Alaska could result in a tsunami hitting Hawaii less
than five hours later.
It is almost impossible to feel a tsunami out at sea in
deep water, however, the form of the wave changes when
it reaches shallow water. Since the water is shallower, the
bottom of the wave begins to “feel” the ocean bottom. The
friction that results causes the wave to slow down from about
450 mi/h (200 m/s) in very deep ocean water to 49 mi/h
(22 m/s) in water 164 ft (50 m) deep. While the front part
of the wave has been reduced in speed, the part at sea is
still moving in quickly. As a result, the energy of the wave
is compressed. As the wave enters shallow water, like that
in a bay, the crest rises. It quickly builds up vertically as the
wave moves onto the shore. This wall of water can be more
than 100 ft (30.5 m) high, in extreme cases. Since gravity
is acting on this huge wall of water, it cannot support itself
and crashes or breaks onto the land, similar to a normal
breaker in the surf zone of a beach. However, the huge
amounts of energy released by a breaking tsunami are many
times greater and more destructive than an ordinary breaker
at the beach, and the tsunami can literally destroy anything
in its path.
In Japan, where some of the most destructive tsunamis
have occurred, there have been cases in which whole fishing
1430
villages were devastated. However, the fishermen, who were
at sea plying their trade, did not feel the wave, which passed
right under them. They did not discover the disaster until
they returned home and found their homes and villages
destroyed. Because these villages were often located within
shallow bays, and the fishermen, being at sea, did not experi-
ence the wave, they assumed that the tsunami arose within
the bay. Therefore, these waves were called tsunamis or
“wave in bay.”
While scientists are not yet able to predict submarine
seismic activity with much
accuracy
, they can easily measure
such events when they occur. Scientists use this information
about the causes of tsunamis to predict when these destruc-
tive sea waves will occur. This is extremely important in
reducing loss of life and property. After the destructive 1946
tsunami that hit Hawaii, a group of tsunami early warning
stations was set up to monitor seismic activity throughout the
Pacific Ocean. The geographical and administrative center of
this monitoring system is in Honolulu, Hawaii. When an
earthquake, underwater
volcano
,or
landslide
is sensed, its
location is pinpointed. If a wave is generated and a change
in the water height is measured at a nearby tide-measuring
station, scientists can then accurately calculate the speed of
the wave to determine when the wave will make landfall.
The appropriate agencies can be alerted, and if necessary,
evacuations and other preparations can be made. This early
warning system has been very successful in reducing damage
caused by tsunamis. For example, there were no deaths from
a tsunami in Hawaii in 1957 because of an early warning,
even though the tsunami was over 26 ft (8 m) tall.
Before the warning systems existed, the first indication
of an approaching tsunami was the rapid movement of water
in a bay out to sea. This exposed areas of the bay bottom
that were rarely or never exposed. The water that rushed
offshore rose to build the huge crest of the wave that would
crash down a few minutes later.
Despite the success of the early warning systems, there
are some problems. For example, not all seismic activity
generates tsunamis; they more commonly result from shallow
focus earthquakes, where the actual point of crustal move-
ment is closer to the surface. It is during these earthquakes
that major crustal movement is most likely. Deep focus
earthquakes, which can be very strong but often result in
less crustal movement, are less likely to trigger tsunamis. It
has been estimated that only one out of ten large underwater
earthquakes causes damage. In addition, the chances of a
tsunami hitting any one spot directly and causing major
damage are relatively small because the energy in the form
of the tsunami is not passed along equally in all directions.
Finally, there may be other factors that reduce or enhance
chances of a tsunami striking. For example, major tsunamis
are rare in regions with wide continental shelves, such as