the mountain of Chatyr-Dag. From here he could see the white heights
of Sabli, and beyond them the hills of Bakhchisaray. Occasionally he
halted in a sheepfold, for a snack of shashlyk and shepherds’ bread. He
tried to size up the shepherds’ ethnic origin from their faces. The
learned authority Pallas had suggested they might be descended from
the ancient Greeks or from Italians from Liguria. They were neither
Mongolian nor Turkish, he thought; their features were more northern,
possibly from Ossetia in the Caucasus. Soon clouds blotted his view
completely. He emerged from them at the mountain top to find sub-
alpine conditions of summer pasturage, enlivened by the occasional
mountain hare. A rosy sunset gave him the illusion that a boat at
Alushta far below was flying through the air. The evening chill made him
shiver, and he bivouacked for the night, using his saddle as a pillow, his
only serenade the dialogue of sheep and goats. Rising in the middle of
the night, he saw the moon turning the sea between two headlands into
a silver streak; the stars twinkled above black clouds.
The next day was clear enough to see the panorama from the
summit, his sweep including Sebastopol and the valley of Balaklava
(where the charge of the Light Brigade would later astound the Russians
and the world) to the west, and Ak Mechet’, today Simferopol’, to the east.
Eagles were hovering above him, soon lost in the mist as he descended,
and a torrential downpour obliterated the view. The wind was so strong
it almost blew him away. Throughout his notes, Griboyedov conveys a
sense of wonder at nature in the mountains, together with an appreciation
of its dangers – which he exaggerated picturesquely on occasion. The
risk of getting lost was very high, with landslides and hostile weather
a further threat. But he came down safely to Alushta, a Tatar village
huddled on a flank of the mountain. He was attracted by its gardens,
streams and ruined castle, and paused for a time on the shore to
exchange impressions with a Turkish sea captain loading wood.
For the next few weeks, he explored the rocky Crimean coastline. He
noted the miserable poverty of the Tatar villages and the way that, as in
all of Asia, their corn was threshed by being trampled under horses’
hooves. He was struck by the profusion of the vegetation, wild ivy, ash
trees, weeping willows, maples, walnuts, pomegranates, fig trees,
acacias and wild grapes, and was pleased to discover a plant he knew
from Shirvan in Persian Azherbaijan, the Rhus Delphinus. Sometimes
there was a glimpse of a ruined fortress or the remnants of a classical
ruin – this was the ancient coast of Tabriz, where, according to legend,
Iphigenia, having escaped sacrifice at Aulis, was priestess of Diana’s
temple. Following Pallas, Griboyedov located the sacrificial site on the
immensely dramatic flat space below the monastery of St George at
Balaklava.
7
With its sheer drop of hundreds of feet into the sea near
Crimea and the Northern Caucasus
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