sons of the nobility who joined the Russian army, presiding genially at
the Club, and encouraging local grandees to beautify the town, in the
certainty that Tiflis was no longer in danger from marauding Turks or
Persians. Not all the aristocracy were so easily won. Historians tracing
the ramifications of the Decembrist movement in Griboyedov’s life have
established the existence of a major conspiracy brewing in Georgian
society in the 1820s. It had no links with the St Petersburg or Moscow
societies. It would have come to a head in 1832 – three years after
Griboyedov’s death – but was unmasked beforehand, leading to 145
arrests. Its adherents were aristocratic nationalists seeking independence
from Russia, but its aims were divided between those wishing to regain
their feudal privileges by restoring the Bagration monarchy and those
of liberal, or Decembrist, sympathies, whose views mirrored those of
their contemporaries in St Petersburg. Griboyedov’s friends, including
Chavchavadze, belonged to this second group.
An interesting visitor to Tiflis, in the summer of 1822, was a Scottish
doctor, Charles Lyall. Born in Edinburgh, he had been unsuccessful in his
profession there, and according to the Dictionary of National Biography,
‘took the low road to find a career in Russia … where he passed some
of the best years of his life’. As well as being doctor to a number of
distinguished Russian families he was an indefatigable traveller, whose
Travels in Russia, the Crimea, the Caucasus and Georgia would be
published three years later. From Tiflis, he planned to visit the Georgian
province of Kakhetia. Since all foreigners, especially when British and
travelling in sensitive areas, were regarded as potential spies,
Griboyedov was tactfully assigned to travel with him as an unofficial
guide.
5
Lyall’s description of their journey gives an enchanting picture of
the Georgian countryside, with its wooded hills and vineyards rising to
the cloud-capped backdrop of the great Caucasian mountain chain. Their
party, he wrote, consisted of Griboyedov (whose name, he explained in
a footnote, derived from the Russian words grib, or mushroom, and
yest, to eat, thus ‘mushroom-eater’), various Russian officers, a native
prince as interpreter, and an armed cavalcade of Cossacks and
Georgians. They travelled for a week, spending the night at military
stations or country estates on the way, where they indulged in ‘liberal
potations’ of the excellent Kakhetian wine, which was stored in stone
jars buried deep in the earth, and which they drank from silver ladles, or
silver-mounted drinking horns. The Georgian aristocracy, noted Lyall,
were much given to display, spending lavishly on horses, clothes and
entertainment, while their houses were often no better than second-
class farms. Most had adapted to wearing European dress, though their
wives for the most part led a secluded, ‘quasi-Asiatic’ existence, and did
not mix with visitors.
Diplomacy and Murder in Tehran
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