
This result, shown in the figure in the margin, follows from Eq. 10.4, since as
Note that waves with very long wavelengths [e.g., waves created by a tsunami (“tidal
wave”) with wavelengths on the order of several kilometers] travel very rapidly. On the other hand,
if the fluid layer is shallow 1 as often happens in open channels2, the wave speed is given
by as derived for the solitary wave in Fig. 10.2. This result also follows from Eq. 10.4,
since as These two limiting cases are shown in Fig. 10.5. For
moderate depth layers the results are given by the complete Eq. 10.4. Note that for a given
fluid depth, the long wave travels the fastest. Hence, for our purposes we will consider the wave
speed to be this limiting situation, c 1gy2
1
2
.
1y ⬃ l2,
y
l S 0.tanh12py
l2S 2py
l
c 1gy2
1
2
,
y l,
y
l S .
tanh12py
l2S 1
10.2 Surface Waves 539
F I G U R E 10.5 Wave speed as a function
of wavelength.
c
2
__
gy
1.0
0
0
__
y
λ
y >>
λ
y <<
λ
Eq. 10.4
c =
g
__
2
λ
π
√
deep layer
c =
gy
√
shallow layer
150
50
100
0
0246810
c, m/s
l, km
y >> l
Fluids in the News
Tsunami, the nonstorm waveA tsunami, often miscalled a “tidal
wave,” is a wave produced by a disturbance (for example, an earth-
quake, volcanic eruption, or meteorite impact) that vertically dis-
places the water column. Tsunamis are characterized as shallow-
water waves, with long periods, very long wavelengths, and
extremely large wave speeds. For example, the waves of the great
December 2005, Indian Ocean tsunami traveled with speeds to
500–1000 m/s. Typically, these waves were of small amplitude in
deep water far from land. Satellite radar measured the wave height
less than 1 m in these areas. However, as the waves approached
shore and moved into shallower water, they slowed down consid-
erably and reached heights up to 30 m. Because the rate at which a
wave loses its energy is inversely related to its wavelength,
tsunamis, with their wavelengths on the order of 100 km, not only
travel at high speeds, they also travel great distances with minimal
energy loss. The furthest reported death from the Indian Ocean
tsunami occurred approximately 8000 km from the epicenter of
the earthquake that produced it. (See Problem 10.14.)
10.2.2 Froude Number Effects
Consider an elementary wave traveling on the surface of a fluid, as is shown in the figure in the
margin and Fig. 10.2a. If the fluid layer is stationary, the wave moves to the right with speed c
relative to the fluid and the stationary observer. If the fluid is flowing to the left with velocity
the wave 1which travels with speed c relative to the fluid2will travel to the right with a
speed of relative to a fixed observer. If the fluid flows to the left with the wave will
remain stationary, but if the wave will be washed to the left with speed
The above ideas can be expressed in dimensionless form by use of the Froude number,
where we take the characteristic length to be the fluid depth, y. Thus, the
Froude number, is the ratio of the fluid velocity to the wave speed.
The following characteristics are observed when a wave is produced on the surface of a
moving stream, as happens when a rock is thrown into a river. If the stream is not flowing, the
wave spreads equally in all directions. If the stream is nearly stationary or moving in a tranquil
manner 1i.e., 2, the wave can move upstream. Upstream locations are said to be in hydraulic
communication with the downstream locations. That is, an observer upstream of a disturbance can
tell that there has been a disturbance on the surface because that disturbance can propagate upstream
V 6 c
Fr V
1gy2
1
2
V
c,
Fr V
1gy2
1
2
,
V c.V 7 c
V c,c V
V 6 c,
V > c
Stationary
V = c
V < c
c – V
V – c
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