Italians themselves perceived wine. The popularity of lambrusco overseas and the gradual
acceptance in Italy of foreign wines provoked a similar revolution in the Italian palate,
which came also to demand a softer and rounder wine. In fact, the success of the
lambrusco well illustrates the conflict between Italians’ own perception of wine and how
they have historically marketed their wines to the Anglo-American world. In Italian
culture, wine complements a meal so that flavours, textures and fragrances are enhanced
even in the most basic of dishes. The pairing of montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a simple red
from the Abruzzi, for example, with porchetta, requires that the wine complements and
amplifies the flavours present in the dish as a whole. By contrast, in the US, wine has
been perceived as cumbersome if it appears too distinctive in relation to food or if it
requires too much thought. Thus wine should not warrant too much reflection; as an
accompaniment to pizza, wine should be consumed quickly As a result, some of Italy’s
great wines are still virtually unknown in many parts of the Anglo-American world.
This fact poses a problem for Italian wine exporters, who see their mission to the
Anglo-American market as primarily an educational one. In fact, some exporters feel it is
necessary to introduce the less demanding wines of valpolicella, bardolino, pinot grigio,
and amarone to the American palates in order to create an interest in the more querulous
wines, whose flavours might not emerge quite so straightforwardly. The opulence and
elegant austerity of the Piedmont’s barolos and barbarescos are cases in point. These aged
wines are primarily the expression of the nebbiolo grape; the difference between the two
is the respective time that they are left to age in oak barrels. They are classic cellaring
wines and embody the soul of Italian winemaking; they are truly ‘philosophies in a
bottle’. When barolos are drunk too young, however, they are tight, tannic chores, which
require real patience from the consumer, if the consumer is at all interested in the wine’s
complexities. The third competing narrative in Italian winemaking, wine for the palate,
suggests that premium wines require time and reflection in order to understand and
imagine their nuances.
Even connoisseurs, accustomed to the legendary wines of California, France and
Australia’s Grange Hermitage, have no analogue for the many kinds of local premium
wines produced in Italy. This problem is compounded when one realizes that over two
thousand grape varietals are alleged to exist in Italy and that the internationally
recognized cabernet is just a small percentage of wines in that eclectic mix. In fact,
Italian cabernet only emerged as a varietal to be taken seriously in its own right during
the 1980s. Likewise, the backbone of Italian varietals, barbera, is almost unknown in the
United States, except through the efforts of some of the Cal-Ital winemakers.
However, barbera holds an esteemed place in relation to two other principal varietals,
sangiovese, the primary grape in chianti, and nebbiolo, the primary grape in barolo.
Depending on the wine, the varietals can be hot and spicy, or reminiscent of wild berries,
tar and leather. Although these three varietals produce red wines (rosso), white wines
(bianco) are also commonplace in Italian culture. The best-known varietals derive
primarily from pinot, riesling and tokai stocks and can be either as dry as stone and slate,
or as fragrant as wildflowers and freshly cut herbs. Rosé (rosato) and sparkling wines
(spumante) are likewise produced in many areas. Moreover, all of these types of wines
vary in style according to the residual amounts of sugar after vinification; thus they can
be very dry (secco), semi-dry (semi-secco) or sweet (dolce).
Entries A–Z 897