be content with things
•
29
and the governor, Martín Estéban de Aróstegui, the brother of the director
of the Real Compañía, faced a similar crisis to the one that plagued his col-
leagues throughout the island. Two years later, in 1756, a strong hurricane
struck the central and western parts of the island, laying waste to ranches,
tobacco vegas, small farms, and haciendas.45 Puerto Príncipe had barely
recovered in 1758 when Aróstegui informed Madariaga that the province
would not be able to provide its quota of cale for the military garrisons
because drought had reduced the herds to critical levels.46
In addition to reducing the quantity of the primary products for export,
the ever-changing inclement weather also disrupted the other mainstays
in the food supply. The hinterland’s function was to provision the popu-
lated cities, and pey farmers outside Havana and Santiago de Cuba grew
domestic subsistence crops such as yuca, other root crops such as boniato
and ñame, plantains, squashes, and a variety of tropical fruits. On market
days, they oered their crops for sale, along with chickens and other do-
mesticated animals. As mentioned previously, large ranches maintained
herds of cale and swine, which, in addition to being one of the island’s
primary exports, were shipped to the cities to provide fresh meat for the
military garrison and the town residents. Many urban households, espe-
cially around Havana, owned garden plots on the outskirts of the city to
provide the necessities of life.47
Luxury provisions that so pleased European palates had to be imported,
and the responsibility for providing such items fell to the Real Compañía.
Cured ham, wines, olives, and olive oil were brought from Spain, but our
was a problem. Under mercantilistic principles of imperial self-suciency,
our was supposed to be exported to Cuba from Mexico, but more oen
than not, the Mexican wheat crop was insucient to meet the Cuban de-
mand.48 Early in its existence, the Real Compañía negotiated the right to
purchase our from British merchants in Jamaica, who, in turn, received
their our from the North American colonies, primarily Pennsylvania.
The Real Compañía was allowed to import foreign our into Cuba ac-
cording to the ratio of one barrel of our per slave. The concession was
ostensibly granted to reduce the drain that the slaves would put on local
food supplies, but it was obvious that the our rarely went to feed the
slaves— rather it was sold to local bakers, who baked it into white bread
for the European tables. Sometimes, the system worked as intended. In
1752, for example, a frigate arriving from Jamaica brought 100 barrels of
legal our along with its slaves.49 The following year, 143 barrels of our