
UNIT 40 Introduction to Troubleshooting 373
8. If all components between the contactor and
compressor are good, check the power sup-
plied to the compressor terminals. If power is
present at the compressor terminals, discon-
nect power to the outside unit by opening the
disconnect switch or circuit breaker.
9. Disconnect the power terminals connected to
the compressor. Use an ohmmeter and check
between each terminal to determine if there is
an open circuit. Also check between each ter-
minal and the compressor case to determine if
there is a grounded circuit. Note: It is possible
for the motor windings to be shorted and not
be open or grounded. Shorted windings will
cause the motor to draw an excessive amount
of current or may not permit the compressor
to start when power is supplied. An ohmmeter
generally will not reveal this condition.
10. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit
in the compressor, note if the compressor is
hot to the touch. If so, the internal overload
may be open. It cannot be determined if the
compressor winding is open or if the internal
overload is open until the compressor cools.
This overload cannot be bypassed. If the com-
pressor is hot, it may take hours for the over-
load to reset, depending on the temperature
of the compressor, the ambient temperature,
and whether the compressor is located in
direct sunlight. The only way to know if the
compressor is defective or if another problem
caused the overload to open is to wait until
the overload resets. It is recommended to
leave the power disconnected to the outside
unit until the compressor cools and allows
the overload to reset. This will allow the tech-
nician to observe whether the compressor
restarts or not.
11. Some of the circumstances that can cause the
internal overload to open are:
• Defective windings in the compressor,
causing it to draw excessive current.
• A stuck compressor.
• A brief power interruption, such as a loss
of power or someone opening the thermo-
stat contacts and reclosing them.
2. Test the thermostat. Remove the thermostat
from its base and check the wires connected
to the thermostat base with a voltmeter to
determine if 24 volts is available. If 24 volts
is available, use a fused jumper to test the
circuit components controlled by the thermo-
stat. Connect one lead to the power terminal
(R) and make connection to each of the other
terminals to determine if there is a response.
If there is a response to each of the terminals,
the thermostat is defective.
3. If there was not a response to a particular cir-
cuit component, replace the thermostat on the
base and check that component starting with
the power supply. In this example, assume
that the air conditioning unit did not respond.
4. Check the 240-volt power supply to the unit.
This can be checked at the breaker, discon-
nect switch, or main contactor depending on
which is most accessible. In this example it
will be assumed that power is present at the
main contactor.
a. Check the output of the main contactor
to determine if power is being supplied to
the compressor. If not, check the 24-volt
supply to the coil of the main contactor.
If 24 volts is supplied to the coil, the
contactor is defective.
5. If 24 volts is not present at the coil of the
contactor, check the thermostat wires where
they enter the outside unit. If power is not
present, check the wiring between the ther-
mostat and the outside unit.
6. If 24 volts is present at the unit, check any
components between the 24-volt supply and
the coil of the contactor. Components such
as high-pressure switches, low-pressure
switches, and so on are connected in series
with the low-voltage circuit.
Now assume that instead of no response at the
outside unit, the condenser fan started but the
compressor did not.
7. If 240 volts is available at the output of the
main contactor, check all components, such
as run and start capacitors, between the con-
tactor and the compressor.