
expressing the fact that the flow is tangent to the
horizontal bed (or, equivalently, that water cannot
penetrate the rigid bed). The governing equations
for water waves are [1]–[5]. Other than the fact that
they are highly nonlinear, a main difficulty in
analyzing the governing equations lies in the fact
that we deal with a free boundary problem: the free
surface y = (t, x) is not specified a priori. In our
discussion, we suppose that initially (at time t = 0), a
disturbance of the flat surface of still water was
created and we analyze the subseque nt motion of
the water. The balance between the restoring gravity
force and the inertia of the system governs the
evolution of the mass of water and our primary
objective is the behavior of the free surface.
An important category of flows are those of zero
vorticity, characterized by the add itional assumption
u
y
¼ v
x
½6
The vorticity of a flow, ! = u
y
v
x
, measures the local
spin or rotation of a fluid element. In flows for which
[6] holds the local whirl is completely absent and for
this reason such flows are called irrotational. Relation
[6] ensures the existence of a velocity potential, namely
a function (t, x, y) defined up to a constant via
x
¼ u;
y
¼ v
Notice that [1] ensures that is a harmonic
function, that is, (@
2
x
þ @
2
y
) = 0. In this way, the
powerful methods of complex analysis become
available for the study of irrotational flows. Thus,
while most water flows are with vorticity, the study
of irrotational flows can be defended mathemati-
cally on grounds of beauty. Concerning the physical
relevance of irrotational water flows, experimental
evidence indicates that for waves entering a region
of still water the assumption of irrotational flow is
realistic (Johnson 1997). Moreover, as a conse-
quence of Kelvin’s circulation theorem (Acheson
1990), a water flow that is irrotational initially has
to be irrotational at all later times. It is thus
reasonable to consider that water motions starting
from rest will remain irrotational at later times.
Nonlinear Model Equations
Starting from the governing equations [1]–[6] one can
derive a variety of model equations using the non-
dimensionalization and scaling approach: a suitable
set of nondimensional variables is introduced, which,
after scaling, leads to the appearance of parameters.
The sizes and relative sizes of these parameters then
govern the type of phenomenon that is of interest. An
asymptotic expansion in one or several parameters
yields an equation that is usually of significance in
some region of space/time. The aim of this process is to
obtain a simpler model that can be used to gain some
understanding and to make some predictions for
specific physical processes. This scaling method yields
the Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) equation
t
þ
x
þ
xxx
¼ 0; t > 0; x 2 R ½7
as a model for the unidi rectional propagation of
shallow water waves over a flat bed ( Johnson 1997).
In [7] the function (t, x) represents the height of the
water’s free surface above the flat bed. We would
like to emphasize that the ‘‘shallow water’’ regime
does not refer to water of insignificant depth – it
indicates that the typical wavelength is much larger
than the typical depth (e.g., tidal waves are
considered to be shallow water waves although
they affect the motion of the deep sea). The KdV
model admits the solitary wave solutions
c
ðt; xÞ¼3c sech
2
ffiffiffi
c
p
2
ðx ctÞ
; c 2 R ½8
For any fixed c > 0, the profile
c
propagates without
change of form at constant speed c on the surface on
the water, that is, it represents a traveling wave. Since
the profiles [8] of the traveling waves drop rapidly to
the undisturbed water level = 0 ahead and behind the
crest of the wave,
c
are called solitary waves. Notice
that [8] shows that taller solitary waves travel faster.
They have other special properties: an initial profile
consisting of two solitary waves, with the taller
preceding the smaller one, evolves in such a way that
the taller wave catches up the other, there is a period of
complicated nonlinear interaction but eventually both
solitary waves emerge completely unscathed! This
special type of nonlinear interaction (the superposition
principle is not valid since KdV is a nonlinear
equation) in which solitary waves regain their form
upon collision occurs only for special equations, in
which case the solitary waves are called solitons. A
further interesting property of the KdV model, relevant
for the understanding of the interaction of solitons, is
the fact that it is completely integrable (McKean
1998): there is a transformation which converts the
equation into an infinite sequence of linear ordinary
differential equations which can be trivially integrated.
Moreover, the KdV-solitons
c
are stable: an initial
profile that is close to the form of a soliton will evolve
into a wave that at any later times has a form close to
that of a soliton (Benjamin 1972). Despite all these
intriguing features of the KdV-model, for all initial
profiles x 7!(0, x) within the Sobolev space H
1
(R)of
square-integrable functions with a square-integrable
distributional derivative, eqn [7] has a unique solution
384 Breaking Water Waves