NixonwasnotthefirstAmericanPresidenttostopinMadrid.Eisenhower
hadpaidatriumphalcallinDecember1959.OneofNixon’sobsessions,infact,
wastoensurethatthecrowdsforhimatleastequaled,and,hehoped,exceeded,
thoseofthepredecessorwhomhebothrespectedandenvied.Therewasno
reasonforconcern.MadridgaveNixonamagnificentreception,marredonlyby
theunfortunatefactthatthecontroltowerneglectedtoclosetherunwaysafter
thearrival,andthewhineofjetenginesdrownedthewelcomingspeeches.Since
onbothsidesthesehadbeenhonedtoafineedgeofplatitude,historyisunlikel y
tofeeltheirloss.OntheceremonialrouteintotownnotevenHaldemancould
complainaboutthesplendidandphotogenicscene,asmountedlancersflanked
hischiefandFranco,erectinanopenlimousine,amidstscenesofwild
enthusiasm.HewasabletoassuageNixon’suneaseoverunfavorable
comparisonswithEisenhower’sreception bycommentingsagelythatonce
crowdsexceededseveralhundredthousandtheonlyproblemwastoannounce
someplausiblefigure.
Ofallthevisitsthiswastheoneinwhichthesymbolismofcontinued
Americaninterestwasmostclearlythemessage.Thenegotiationsonbaseshad
beenconcluded;thepost‐Francotransitionwasasubjecttoodelicateforeven
themostobliqueallusion.AndtheconversationswithFrancowerenot
memorable—atleasttome—foryetanotherreason.WhenNixon,accompanied
byme,calledonFrancoforwhatwerebilledassubstantivetalks,wefoundthe
ageddictatorexhaustedbythelongmotorcadeandtendingtodozeoffwhilethe
Presidentwastalking.Thishadaweirdlymesmericeffectonme.Despitemymost
desperateeffortstocontributetotheSpanish‐Americandialogue,atleasttothe
extentofstayingawake,Ifoundmyselfalsodozingoff.Nixonwasleftexchanging
ideaswithGregorioLopezBravo,theSpanishForeignMinister,whileFrancoandI
recuperatedpeacefullyfromourexertions.Iwasadmittedtothemeetingas
note‐taker.Weowewhateverhistoricalrecordoftheeventasnowmayexistto
thewakefulGeneralWalters,actingasinterpreter.
WeflewoffandstoppedforlunchatChequers,thecountryhomeofBritish
PrimeMinisters,forNixon’sfirsttalkswithEdwardHeath.Therelationshipwith
HeathwasoneofthemostcomplexofNixon’sPresidency.Therewasnoforeign
leaderforwhomNixonhadahigherregard,especiallyincombinationwithSir
AlecDouglas‐Home,Heath’sForeignSecretary,whomNixonpositivelyrevered.
DuringtheBritishelectioncampaign,Nixonhadbeenanunabashedpartisanof