thatunobtrusiveofficialscouldassembleusinpreciseprotocolrankforthe
obligatorygrouppicture.Nomatterhowlargethegroup,itwasrapidlyarranged
andthewholepicture‐takingprocesscompletedinnomorethanthreetofive
minutes.Thehonoredguestswerethenescortedintothebanquethalltothe
strainsofamarchandshookhandswithalonglineofdignitaries.The hallcan
seatasmanyasthreethousandguests.DuringNixon’svisitthenumberwas
aboutninehundred,butthelargeroundtablesweresoarrangedthatnosenseof
emptyspaceswascreated.Theheadtableswerelocatedatthefootofastageon
whichwereplacedtwosetsofmicrophones,onefortheleaderproposingatoast,
theotherfortheinterpreter.IsatatatablewiththeNixonsandChouEn‐lai,
althoughtoofarawaytoparticipateintheirconversation.Theatmospherewas
convivial.Notonlydidthecoursesofthemealseemtogoonforever,buteach
Chineseatthetable,inkeepingwithChinesecustom,concentratedonmaking
sureeveryAmericanplatewasfilledwithheapsoffood.
Andthen,ofcourse,cametheendlessroundsoftoasts.Wedrankmao‐tai,
thatdeadlybrewwhichinmyviewisnotusedforairplanefuelonlybecauseitis
tooreadilycombustible. IreceivedgraphicproofofthiswhenNixononhisreturn
toWashingtonsoughtto illustratetheliquid’spotencytohisdaughterTricia.He
pouredabottleofitintoabowlandsetitafire.Tohishorrorthefirewouldnot
goout;thebowlburstandsentflamingmao‐taiacrossthetabletop.Thefrantic
combinedeffortsofthefirstfamilymanagedtoextinguishthefirejustbeforea
nationaltragedyoccurred.OtherwisetheNixonAdministrationwouldhavecome
toaself‐inflictedprematureendevenearlierthanitdid.
EachChinesearoundthetablewoulddrinkonlybytoastinganAmerican.
Thiswasdonewithacheery“gambei”—whichmeans“bottomsup”andistaken
literally.Theglassmustbeemptiedeachtime;theindividualproposingthetoast
makessurethereisnocheatingbyshowinghisemptyglasstoshamehisopposite
numberintofollowingsuit.SincetheChineseoutnumberedustwotooneand
weremoreusedtotheirnationaldrink,exuberancemountedassuchevenings
progressed.Fortunately,thebanquettoastswerepreparedaheadoftime,and
wereread.OnlyinShanghaidideuphoriacarryoneawaywhenNixonproposed
whatsoundedlikeadefensivemilitaryallianceinhisonlyextemporaneoustoast
ofthetrip.
[“…thisgreatcity,overthepast,hasonmanyoccasionsbeenthevictimofforeign
aggressionandforeignoccupation.AndwejointheChinesepeople,wetheAmericanpeople,in
ourdedicationtothisprinciple:Thatneveragainshallforeigndomination,foreignoccupation,
bevisiteduponthiscityoranypartofChinaoranyindependentcountryinthisworld.“Mr.