Thedachawasaboutaforty‐minutedrive,evenatimmodestspeed,from
theKremlin.ItwassetonalittleriseinaheavilywoodedareaalongtheMoscow
River.Therewasnootherhouseinsight.Itwasheavilyguardedbyuniformed
KGBpersonnel.ThedachawasbuiltinclassicSovietstylenottoodifferentfrom
theguesthousesinLeninHills.Itwastwostorieshigh,comfortablewithouteither
appearinglavishorrisingtoelegance.Thegroundfloorhadononesidealittle
officeandacomfortablyappointedlivingroomoverlookingalawnleadingtoa
boatlandingontheMoscowRiver.Ontheothersideofthehallwasamovie
projectionroom.Nexttoittherewasasmallconferenceroomfurnishedvery
sparselywithanovaltableandagrandfatherclockbythewall.Theconference
room,likethesittingroom,overlookedtheriver.
Theeveningwastobemarked bysudden,unpredictablechanges.Having
successfully“kidnapped”thePresidentonce,Brezhnev,inhighgoodspiritsonour
arrivalatthedacha,thenwhiskedhimdowntotheboatlandingforahydrofoil
ride.IfollowedinanotherhydrofoilwithAleksandrov.[
BrezhnevgaveNixononeof
thesehydrofoilsasagift,inreturnfortheCadillacthatwegavehimforhisautocollection.]Far
behind,wallowinguncomfortablyinourwake,wasaconventionalvesselloaded
withthesameSecretServiceagentswhohadnowseentheirchargeabducteda
secondtimebythewilySovietleaders,thistimebywater.
Thehydrofoilclearlysoughttobreakthespeedrecordoftheofficial
limousines,and,forallIknow,succeeded.Yet,despitethecommotionandthe
obviousfrenzyofthosewhoseprocedureswerebeingsototallyviolated,the
excursiongavemeafeelingofextraordinaryserenity.Onbothsidesoftheriver
therewerebirchgrovesthatpunctuatedasoftlyundulatinglandscapeextending
ingreenwavestothefarhorizon.Theview wasconsolingratherthanspectacular.
ItwasaglimpseofthatoceanoflandwhichisRussia.Acrossthisexpansehave
streamedinvadinghordesfrombothEastandWestoverthecenturies;intheend,
eachwasovercomebytheenduringpatienceofapeoplestubbornlyclingingto
itsnativesoilandpreservingitsownidentityamidstallviolenceandcruelty—
eventhatinflictedbyitsownleaders.
Whenwereturnedtothedachaaboutanhourlater,KosyginandPodgorny
hadarrived,ashadtheconsiderablyput‐uponLordandNegroponte.Butbefore
ourmeetingcouldstartIhadfirsttosettleadisputebetweentheKGBandthe
SecretService.Determinednottolettheirchargebecartedoffonyetanother