
BIRTH OF A NATION ENCYCLOPEDIA OF POPULAR CULTURE
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Bean; mainstream retailers like Macy’s and Nordstrom also began to
carry Birkenstocks.
Originally Fraser sold four styles, but by the early 1980s the
company offered over 20 different models with an expanded color
selection. The company also introduced a completely non-leather
shoe, the Alternative, for ethical vegetarians. Smaller sizes of the
classic styles, made to fit children, were offered around the same time.
In the late 1980s and early 1990s, the color selection moved out from
neutral and earthy tones like tan, black, white, brown, crimson, and
gold to include bright and neon colors like orange and turquoise.
During the same time, closed shoes made specifically for profession-
als who spend most of their workday on their feet, such as restaurant
and health care workers, showed up in shops and catalogs.
Birkenstocks, once the ugly duckling, moved to the center of
fashion. Vogue, GQ, Sassy, and Details magazines all featured sandal
and clog styles in fashion layouts throughout the 1990s. Birkenstocks
were seen on the feet of stars such as Madonna, Tanya Tucker,
Harrison Ford, Wesley Snipes, and Yvette Freeman; politicos Nor-
man Schwarzkopf, Donna Shalala, and John F. Kennedy Jr.; sports
greats Shaquille O’Neal, Dennis Rodman, and Dan O’Brien and the
maven of taste, Martha Stewart, among others. Menswear designer
John Scher had custom Birkenstocks made in gold leather, gray
corduroy, and wine pinstripe for his fall 1998 collection. Perry Ellis,
Sportmax, and Narcisco Rodriguez have also featured Birkenstocks
in their runway shows.
By the late 1990s Birkenstock had over 50 styles including
rubber clogs, trekking shoes, women’s wedge heels, multi-colored
sandals, anti-static models, as well as mainstays like the Zurich, a
style similar to the shoes Margot Fraser brought from Germany in
1966. Fraser is chief executive officer and 60 percent owner of the
Novato, California, based company, called Birkenstock Footprint
Sandals, Inc., with employees owning the balance. Fraser’s corpora-
tion has over 3,600 retail accounts, 125 licensed shops, and four
company-owned stores in the United States, including the San Fran-
cisco flagship store opened in 1997. Birkenstock’s sales for fiscal
1997 were an estimated $82 million.
—ViBrina Coronado
F
URTHER READING:
‘‘Birkenstock Braces to Fight the Competition.’’ Personnel Journal.
August 1994, 68.
Brokaw, Leslie. ‘‘Feet Don’t Fail Me Now.’’ Inc. May 1994, 70.
McGarvey, Robert. ‘‘Q & A: Margot Fraser.’’ Entrepreneur. Febru-
ary 1995.
O’Keefe, Linda. Shoes: A Celebration of Pumps, Sandals, Slippers
and More. New York, Workman Publishing, 1996.
Patterson, Cecily. ‘‘From Woodstock to Wall Street.’’ Forbes. No-
vember 11, 1991, 214.
The Birth of a Nation
D. W. Griffith’s 1915 silent-film epic The Birth of a Nation
remained as controversial at the end of the twentieth century as at the
beginning, largely because of its sympathetic portrayal of the Ku
Klux Klan and of white ascendancy in the defeated South during the
Reconstruction period following the American Civil War. Galva-
nized by the film’s depiction of the newly freed slaves as brutal and
ignorant, civil-rights groups like the National Association for the
Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) picketed the film in many
cities when it was released and protested again when the Library of
Congress added the classic to the National Film Registry in 1992
(though a year later the Library excluded the film from an exhibit of
54 early film works). Still, The Birth of a Nation is highly regarded as
a cinematographic triumph, a benchmark that helped define film
syntax for future directors in a newly emerging genre. The ambiguous
legacy of this film was capsulized by a New York Times reporter who
wrote (Apr. 27, 1994): ‘‘Like an orator who says all the wrong things
brilliantly . . . [it] manages to thrill and appall at the same time.’’ Few
of its most ardent critics deny credit to Griffith for having achieved a
work of technical brilliance. Film historian Lewis Jacobs argued in
The Rise of the American Film: A Critical History, that The Birth of a
Nation and Intolerance, a sequel, released by Griffith in 1916, are
‘‘high points in the history of the American movie’’ that ‘‘far
surpassed other native films in structure, imaginative power, and
depth of content . . . They foreshadowed the best that was to come in
cinema technique, earned for the screen its right to the status of an art,
and demonstrated with finality that the movie was one of the most
potent social agencies in America.’’
The iconic status of The Birth of a Nation is based on several
factors. It was heavily promoted and advertised nationwide, making it
the prototype of the modern ‘‘blockbuster.’’ In a nickelodeon era, it
was the first to break the $2-per-ticket barrier, proving that mass
audiences could be attracted to serious films that were more than
novelty entertainments or melodramas. It was the first film shown in
the White House, after which President Woodrow Wilson reputedly
said, ‘‘It is like writing history with lightning.’’ In addition to
establishing D. W. Griffith as America’s most important filmmaker,
The Birth of a Nation also helped to propel the career of Lillian Gish, a
21-year-old actress who, with her sister Dorothy, had appeared
in some of Griffith’s earlier films. Most importantly, it was a
groundbreaking production that set the standard for cinematography
and the basic syntax of feature films. Although, in the 1960s,
revisionist critics like Andrew Sarris speculated that Griffith’s techni-
cal sophistication had been overrated, The Birth of a Nation is still
revered for its pioneering use of creative camera angles and move-
ment to create a sense of dramatic intensity, and the innovative use of
closeups, transitions, and panoramic shots, ‘‘all fused by brilliant
cutting,’’ in the words of Lewis Jacobs. Even the protests engendered
by the film helped Americans find their bearings in the first signifi-
cant cultural wars involving artistic creativity, censorship, and identi-
ty politics in the age of the new mass media.
The Birth of a Nation was based on Thomas Dixon, Jr.,’s 1905
drama The Clansman, which had already been adapted into a popular
play that had toured American theaters. Screenwriter Frank Woods,
who had prepared the scenario for Kinemacolor’s earlier, abortive
attempt to bring Dixon’s work to the screen, convinced Griffith to
take on the project. ‘‘I hoped at once it could be done,’’ Griffith said,
‘‘for the story of the South had been absorbed into the very fiber of my
being.’’ Griffith also added material from The Leopard’s Spots,
another of Dixon’s books that painted a negative picture of Southern
blacks during the Reconstruction era. In a 1969 memoir, Lillian Gish
recalled that Griffith had optioned The Clansman for $2500 and
offered the author a 25 percent interest in the picture, which made
Dixon a multimillionaire. She quoted Griffith as telling the cast that
‘‘I’m going to use [The Clansman] to tell the truth about the War