
CHILDENCYCLOPEDIA OF POPULAR CULTURE
497
prestigious home-furnishing company. She worked for the advertis-
ing manager, learning how to write press releases, work with photog-
raphers, and handle public relations. She loved having something to
do and reveled in the job. Having always been interested in writing,
Julia also began submitting short pieces to magazines such as the
Saturday Review of Literature. Her life now had some larger purpose.
But Julia’s stay in New York would only last a few years.
Unhappy over the breakup of a relationship and worried about her
mother’s health, Julia returned home to Pasadena, where her mother
died two months later. As the oldest child, Julia decided to stay in
California to take care of her father and soon found work writing for a
new fashion magazine and later heading up the advertising depart-
ment for the West Coast branch of Sloane’s. But by the early 1940s,
with America at war, Julia had grown impatient with her leisurely
California life. A staunch Rooseveltian Democrat, Julia wanted to be
a part of the war effort and so applied to the WAVES and the WACS.
But when her height disqualified her from active service, Julia moved
to Washington, D.C., where she began work in the Office of Strategic
Services, the American branch of secret intelligence.
With her gift for leadership, Julia quickly rose in the ranks,
working six days a week, supervising an office of 40 people. She still
dreamed of active service, and when the opportunity arose to serve
overseas, she jumped at the chance. In early 1944, 31-year-old Julia
McWilliams sailed for India. In April, she arrived in Ceylon, where
she went to work at the OSS headquarters for South East Asia.
Although she considered the work drudgery, she loved being in a
foreign country, as well as the urgency of the work at hand. She met
many interesting people, men and women, not the least of whom was
a man ten years older than she, an urbane officer named Paul Child.
Stationed in Ceylon and later in China, Julia and Paul became
good friends long before they fell in love. She was fascinated by his
background—a multilingual artist, he had lived in Paris during the
1920s and was a true man of the world. One of his great passions was
food, and he gradually introduced Julia to the joys of cuisine. In
China, the two friends would eat out at local restaurants every chance
they could. She would later write: ‘‘The Chinese food was wonderful
and we ate out as often as we could. That is when I became interested
in food. There were sophisticated people there who knew a lot about
food . . . I just loved Chinese food.’’
Julia recognized it first—she had fallen in love. It took Paul a
little longer to realize that he was head-over-heels for this tall,
energetic, enthusiastic Californian. In fact, after the war, the two went
their separate ways, only coming together later in California. In their
time apart, Julia had begun perfunctory cooking lessons, hoping to
show off her newfound skills to Paul. By the time they decided to
drive across country together, they knew they would be married. Julia
and Paul Child set up house together in Washington, D.C., awaiting
Paul’s next assignment. When they were sent to Paris, both were ecstatic.
Julia’s first meal upon landing in France was an epiphany. She
later reflected, ‘‘The whole experience was an opening up of the soul
and spirit for me . . . I was hooked, and for life, as it turned out.’’
While settling in Paris, Julia and Paul ate out at every meal, and Julia
was overwhelmed by the many flavors, textures, and sheer scope of
French cuisine. She loved everything about it and wanted to learn
more. In late October 1949, Julia took advantage of the GI Bill and
enrolled at the Cordon Bleu cooking school. It was the first step in a
long journey that would transform both her life and American
culinary culture.
The only woman in her class, Julia threw herself into cooking,
spending every morning and afternoon at the school and coming
home to cook lunch and dinner for Paul. On the side, she supplemen-
ted her schooling with private lessons from well-known French chefs,
and she attended the Cercle des Gourmettes, a club for French women
dedicated to gastronomy. There she met Simone Beck and Louisette
Bertholle. The three soon became fast friends and, after Julia graduat-
ed from Cordon Bleu, they decided to form their own cooking school
geared at teaching Americans in Paris. L’Ecole des Trois Gourmands
was formed in 1952 and was an instant success. Out of this triumvirate
came the idea for a cookbook that would introduce Americans to
French cuisine.
With the help of an American friend, the idea was sold to
Houghton Mifflin. The most popular American cookbooks, The Joy
of Cooking and Fanny Farmer, were old classics geared toward
traditional American fare. Julia envisioned a cookbook that would
capture the American feel of The Joy of Cooking in teaching Ameri-
cans about French cuisine. For the next ten years, Julia and her
companions labored tirelessly over their cookbook. Even when Paul
and Julia were transferred, first to Marseille then to Bonn, Washing-
ton, and Oslo, the Trois Gourmands remained hard at work. Julia was
meticulous and scientific, testing and re-testing each recipe, compar-
ing French food products to American, keeping up with American
food trends, and polishing her writing and presentation style. Less
than a year from the finish, however, Houghton Mifflin suddenly
pulled out and it seemed that the project would never come to fruition.
Then Knopf stepped in and in 1961, shortly after Julia and Paul
returned to the United States for good, Mastering the Art of French
Cooking was released. An immediate success, the cookbook, with its
superb quality, clear and precise recipes, and unique pedagogical
approach to cooking, became the standard against which all other
cookbooks would come to be judged. At 49 years old, Julia Child was
hailed as a great new American culinary voice. In a country where
most people’s meals consisted of canned items, frozen foods, and TV
dinners, the food community hailed her classical training. As Karen
Lehrman wrote in ‘‘What Julia Started,’’ ‘‘In the 1950s, America was
a meat-and-potatoes kind of country. Women did all of the cooking
and got their recipes from ladies’ magazine articles with titles like
‘The 10-Minute Meal and How to Make It.’ Meatloaf, liver and
onions, corned beef hash—all were considered hearty and therefore
healthy and therefore delicious. For many women, preparing meals
was not a joy but a requirement.’’ Julia Child would change all that.
Julia and Paul settled in Cambridge, Massachusetts, a decision
that would ultimately make Julia Child a household name. As the
home of many of the country’s finest institutions of higher learning,
Cambridge boasted the best-funded educational television station,
WGBH. Early in 1962, WGBH approached Julia about putting
together a cooking show. Filmed in black and white in rudimentary
surroundings, the show was a success from the very start. Julia Child
was a natural for television. Although each show was carefully
planned and the meals meticulously prepared, on-air Julia’s easy
going manner, sense of humor, and joie de vivre shone through,
making her an instant hit.
Within a year, Julia Child’s The French Chef was carried on
public television stations around the country and Julia Child was a
household name with a huge following. As Karen Lehrman describes,
‘‘Julia may or may not have been a natural cook, but she certainly was
a natural teacher and comedian. Part of the entertainment came from
her voice alone, which can start a sentence on a bass note and end of
falsetto, and elongate in different keys several seemingly random
words in between. But she also had an exceptional presence, a keen