
the central lowlands in the first half of the eighteenth century. The application of scrutching and heckling machines to the
preparation stage led to a rapid increase in ‘lint’ mills— there were 4 in 1732 and 317 in 1782. Spinning machinery was
gradually introduced from the 1790s. There was some regional specialization with the eastern counties of Fife, Forfar and
Perth, centred on Dundee producing coarser, cheap cloth spun from flax, tow and hemp and after 1830 jute, while the western
counties of Renfrew and Lanark, centred on Glasgow, produced finer cambrics, gauzes and mixtures. Fine linen fabrics lost
out in competition to fine Glasgow cottons and the balance of production swung increasingly to the east.
New technology may have been applied to preparation and spinning but power-weaving had made little headway by 1850.
Throughout the United Kingdom in 1850 there were 965,000 spindles but only 1,200 powerlooms. Weaving remained the
province of the linen handloom workers.
Silk
In 1700 the focal point of silk production was at Spitalfields in London but during the following century production grew in
Norwich and especially in Cheshire and Derbyshire. Production was about 1.6 per cent of industrial production in 1812
compared to 4.2 per cent in linens, 11 per cent in wool and 12 per cent in cottons. Its technological revolution was earlier than
in other textile industries. Silk-throwing machines were introduced from Italy in the early eighteenth century. Weaving was
still largely manual by 1850 though machines like the Dutch ‘engine looms’ were introduced in the late eighteenth century for
weaving ribbons, especially, in Coventry, and the Jacquard looms for patterned weaving in the first half of the nineteenth
century. The comparative progress of mechanization in United Kingdom textiles can be seen in Table 5.5.
Table 5.5 The impact of mechanization in textiles
Textile Factories Spindles Powerlooms Horsepower steam water
Cotton 1,932 20,977,017 249,627 71,005 11,550
Wool 1,497 1,595,278 9,439 13,455 8,689
Worsted 501 875,830 32,617 9,890 1,625
Linen 393 965,031 1,141 10,905 3,387
Silk 277 1,225,560 6,092 2,858 853
Source: Factory Inspectors’ Returns, 1850, quoted in A.E.Musson The Growth of British Industry, Batsford, 1981, p. 93.
Knitwear and hosiery
New technologies were applied very slowly to some branches of textiles. The geographical localization of knitwear and
hosiery owed much to the invention, in 1589, of a stocking frame by William Lee, near Nottingham. By the 1840s 90 per cent
of the industry was in Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire or Derbyshire with a dispersed domestic structure within defined areas
around central warehouses. There were major technical problems in applying power to knitting machines and that plus the
superabundance of cheap labour meant that employers had little incentive to innovate. Steam was first used at Loughborough
in 1839 but did not spread to Nottingham until 1851 and it was not until the 1860s that high-quality factory goods could be
made. There were secondary centres of framework knitting at Tewkesbury, Hawick, Dumfries and in Devon. Framework
knitters were even more depressed than handloom weavers and in the 1851 Census 65,000 people were employed in the
industry: 35,000 men and 30,000 women.
Lace-making
Hand lace-making was a staple industry for women and children in Bedford, Buckingham, Northampton, Devon, Dorset,
Somerset, Wiltshire, Hampshire, Derby and Yorkshire. By the end of the century it was concentrated in the first three of these
counties and employed 140,000 people. The late eighteenth century saw the development of point-net and warplace using
modified framework knitting machines in Nottinghamshire. In 1808–9 John Heathcoat patented a bobbin-net machine but he
moved to Tiverton in Devon after his frames were smashed in 1816 and was employing 1,500 people by the mid-1820s. Hand-
made lace was faced with competition from two sources after 1815: the machine-produced lace of Devon and Nottingham,
and cheaper foreign imports. Demand for hand-made lace revived in the 1840s and the industry gained a new lease of life.
About half of the lace and a sixth of the hosiery was exported. This led to both industries experiencing sharp trade
fluctuations. Changing fashions could, as in the case of hand-made lace between 1815 and 1840, have an impact on growth.
This was also evident in glove-making which was centred in the late eighteenth century in London and Woodstock, Yeovil
and Worcester, where it was overwhelmingly domestic in organization. It too, was an industry of fashion and there was a great
decline after Huskisson removed the prohibition on French imports in 1830. The response of the clothing trade was also not
THE REVOLUTION IN TECHNOLOGIES—INDUSTRIAL CHANGE 53